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Have you looked at the pump itself. Remove the end filter by screwing anticlockwise & hold your finger over thew hole while the pump is running. You should feel the suction. If there's no suction suspect a weak piston seal in the pump. Quick & easy fix if this is the cuplrit. As for the...

How many of the nanocom owners have been successful in entering the EKA code through the Nanocom when the EKA code wouldn't work through the door method? Is there any data on this? There's two types of keycode lockout. A part lockout can be deactivated throught the door or diagnostics. A full...

You're in trouble unless a dealer near you can extract it from their database. You can remove the becm & send it to us here in the UK. There's nothing else to suggest other than that.

Yes. It can cause the binnacle to flicker, & the power triggering on & off in the becm. This happens so fast that the engine know's no different. A bad earth can cause the same symptoms as these vehicles are earth switching. Everything is live & switched by the earth. This is opposite to the...

Have you looked at the ignition switch itself. The electonics screwed to the back of the barrel could be arching inside. As a trial, get a jump lead & attached one end to the earth on the becm, & the other end onto the battery negative/earth.

The fusebox behind the glovebox is looking like the culprit here. This holds the programming for the keys etc. Unfortunately, this cannot just be replaced with another, as these are a one time only program.

I reaken it was just a door lock mechanism issue.

I suffered a very similar problem on my own P38. We found the clutch fork was bent or had damaged itself. We only found out by placing it next to a new one.

I'm always disconnecting the battery. Never had to use the EKA code no matter how long it's been left without power. Always disconnect the battery with the vehicle unlocked, then lock manually.

Certainly a charging issue. These D3's need full power to start. Having a D3 on the ramps for 3 to 4 hours with the boot open will kill a battery.

To tell you the truth, the fact that you mentioned that it has been to them rings my alarms. I just do not know what I'm going to find. It always surprises me, & then I see the problem staring me in the face. Unfortunately, it has cost you. As Marty say's, We can't work out what's the problem...

Yeah, Liquid can be a problem, unless it's lucozade sport as this can make your range rover go faster.

They're such a bunch of lazy Bar**ards. If they're in a hurry or can't park, they take it back. They have to come through the gates, then up my winding staircase.

I'll throw my tuppence woth in here. I don't wish to upset you. It is your becm at fault. I have seen this fault so many times.

Change the sensor on that corner & see what happens.

Is the oil level rising on your dipstick?

Dan, get him to box up the engine ecu as well. I'll go through that for you & we'll see what's going on.

Dan, Send it down to us & we will fully test it properly for you. This won't cost you anything other than postage. Our details are here, www.callrova.com If we find anything sinister, we can repair this for you, & I'll contact you as & when if this is required. We don't charge for testing...

Reading the previous posts here, Someone mentioned Lynton Washer from all car electrics. This is another wally who used to frequent my workshop, He owes me money, then disappeared & started advertising his becm repairs. I can't warn you chaps enough. These chaps DO NOT know what they're...

Sorry buddy, Sounds like you've been ripped off over your becm. I only know one person who charges to test a becm, & he can't test them, only diagnostically access the data. You should of sent it to me, but then, this chap who declares to repair Becm's has ripped many people off in the past...