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My 2c worth is that I lose 5 times as much trf box oil at highway cruising speeds - 100 kph - than I do dwawdling around in the bush at low speeds The sump extender is reasonably well sold here in saffer land and the one post I have seen where the person had a temp sensor in the trf box was...

The only concern i would have is it will want to over fuel which isn't great for our style of diesel motor - so should be a fair amount more smoky

On the R380 my faulty memory tells me that the R380 found in the td5's has an uprated bearing set - On the main shaft - could be wrong though as has happened before

I thought "stumpy" referred to the various bellhousings

When i reverse it out of the parking the RUM may flow a lot more than usual

And g/box is back in - tedious and fiddly but doable - for 1 man at 60 years old I have a long and short bolts and have mixed 1 of them up - but that's tomorrow's problem Put the slave cylinder in and I have clutch pedal pressure again so that's a big yipeeeeee for me Now had I known that the...

Well I can confirm it's easily do-able - serious My recipe was obviously props off hand brake drum off first exhaust hanger off both mountings off exhaust undone top centre console etc and cut the rubber so the gear lever can slide back enough put the cross member back with just 2 bolts per...

I dont think i was anywhere near as nervous when i got engaged to a wumin vs this "simple" fix

After re-reading the haynes bible it speaks of studs with nuts vs bolts on the top of the bellhousing to motor face the only difference i can find is the one stud and nut at the 7 o clock point and then the open bolt hole and the one funny at the eight o clock position it does also say that...

In the disco if I remove the rubber surrounding the gear lever's I probably have 10 inches to slide it backwards - so that's a plus

Then once bell housing is off and handbrake assembly is also off I reckon I could slide the g/box backwards enough using the cross member as a support as it looks strong enough - using a nice strong piece of wood to let the box lie on top of and enabling me to slide the wood not the box over the...

Right - so this ex computer geek did a recce of the bellhousing to come up with my devilish plan Very top of b/housing is a stud with no nut on it next on the drivers side going down is another stud with a nut on it then all the bottom ones up until about 7'o clock I have a bolt and right next...

Do I need to loosen or undo the engine mounts if the motor needs to tilt ?

There seems to be a fair amount of fixing things in the driveway on this forum so thought I would ask I have punched a hole in my clutch fork so either g/box out or slide the gbox backwards enough This is from an aussie forum that reckons you can slide the g/box backwards enough to change the...

if you have been running 1.7 bar for 13 years and no issues that's brilliant check the pipe from the turbo to the injector pump for a leak it needs that pressure to push the boost pin down

Someone posted on this forum that they fitted a gas flow head from turners I think and one of their comments was that the sound levels at idle seemed a lot quieter or less tractor like Yours ?

That 4 times press has worked for me as well to resync -

1.7 bar from the turbo is huge-in theory a diesel can never have enough air but that's the most I have heard about If you turn the screw-at the back of the injector pump- from the 12 o clock position to the 20 min past position you should fly like a scolded cat

for the alternator to produce current / voltage it needs a supply from the battery to start the process so it's one of the wires connected to the alternator

Are the pistons oversize at all ?