No is not. I had the plans of using it if need be but we welded a.steelcrossbar on an old transit and using that
Still thinking of an American police pushbar .
Evtl. Some.day. maybe.
The question is how much is it worth to put into mods the way it cost just to keep it driving.
Qell
We.done it now on a van. Is great. Car stops on the track you just push it out the way.
No muscle effort and dirty shoes.
Its a handy peace of kit them bars.
i dont bloody know how to explain the test result according to that test sheet.
all i done is copy and paste then put result under it.
to me ohm meter and testing stuff is not what i am used to do.
yes wait until the nanocom arrives then start sourcing part numbers and stuff - and what till...
Yes. And the cdl one gives only 3 connections out of 4.
Just need to find how to source one of them cdl switches for the doorpack - if the gurus on here regarding this results confirm my suspecion - and get the module out replace the cdl and it should work to put this stupid eka back in to get...
yes i believe the cdl switch. one of the test on the door lock manuel point of no connection. the key test dos but not the latch test. so guess that is the culprint while the car dosnt like me to put the eka in.
ohm meter test while lock is still attached.
as i have no idea hoe to get it out without damaging anything else for now.
it was disconnected from the doorpack.
i did use the sound of the ohm meter. seems easy.
Wire colours for vehicles with wiring loom coming out of door latch (approx. 1996...
all we figured out so far i had the wrong eka. which is sorted. ( well if its still the right becm in there )
the other thing we know for sure - the door dos not accept any clockwise turn apart from unlocking the driver door and boot.
there is nothing it dos. no noise no surring nothing.
usual...
nope. i dont have an ohm meter. i get one tomorrow if the nanocom dont come beforehand. that should tell me faulty switches too.
sorry i never ever used one of them and have not a cue what im doing with an ohm meter. lol.
its like welding. i wouldnt have the slightes idea how to. i may would...
Thank you. I will.
In the meantime.i got access to them door switch pack cable loom.
Looking rave pictures and what i have. Different.
Looks.like something was already bodged with a black wire. Unless I missing this in rave amd it should be there ?
I try uploading the pictures.
right. i got the right eka code from land rover now.
still dont work.
door panel of seems all fine in there.
driver seat out. becm looks like is in there since the dark ages.
what i also noticed. i can unlock from the inside the passenger door. while playing with the button pressing up and down...
Looks.like I have to.
We.managed get rid of the eka. But still don't sync the key.
Had the door unit off and checked. But not sure if I can take the door handle stuff and switches out myself.
So just told her not going on holiday until its sorted.
is that not the nanocom ?
i ordered defo the nanocom because of the price and it comes with the full p38 stuff on it, like becm, suspension hevac etc pp.
at least that what i been told from the email.
or is faultmate and this 35 something else?
Saying this. When I try to initialize the code.
The 4 turns to the left.
The indicators flashing.
When I put the code in.
No indicators.
Not outside and not in the dash.
When I do the final step unlock and try to start.
Disabled message.
When I close the door and lock it with the key. The rear...
Guess I have to.
I am going nowhere.
Maybe I know what I'm looking for if I have a replacement one.
I cant see anything in this door what points to a switch.
( well. I never had to deal with such stuff )
Still need to find a dealer confirm its the right code..
I start thinking it is not the...
how would i know that ? al i can say its a 1996 p38.
just took the door panel of and shut the door walked away.
that is like china inside.
no idea where or what i am looking for inside.
so i sprayed a lot contact spray in it and see what it dos in 20 minutes.
may try a hammer next. i would not...