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There's a nice mechanical gauge available somewhere which shows water temp on the bottom half and oil pressure on top which would fit neatly in place of the original temperature gauge. Even has nice old-style Land Rover branding in the middle. Put rpm and fuel level either side of it. In the...

If you need mostly standard wiring, autosparks are actually quite reasonable once you've added up the costs of the wire, connectors and time involved. You can always change out the fusebox and make any other minor changes before fitting it to the car which would be easier. I cut out the...

One alternative would be to fit a duplicate set of rear lights in the corners of the roof. You could have just brake lights wires in or use the tail light filament as well. A second pair of indicators in the same position would work too.

If you have twin fans and two temperature inputs, with the right relay circuit you can have them come on at low speed (wired in series) and high speed (parallel) depending on the temperature.

Best thing would be a fan that fits closely into the original shroud. That way it pulls air across the whole radiator rather than just a small area as most electric conversions do. A disco fan shroud is slightly shallower if you need more space.

My 90 heater was pretty poor. I disconnected both pipes at the engine end and jammed a garden hose in one of them. All sorts of brown crap came out and eventually it went clear. Next was to seal up all the gaps around the heater box to prevent loss of hot air, and clear any accumulated rubbish...

For a reasonable upgrade, talk to JE engineering. They do a stage 2 kit which is a bigger intercooler along with a remap. As you have a bigger intercooler already, they'll deduct that from the cost. Decent boost in power and torque without breaking the bank. They do postal tunes for most where...

I see what you're getting at. So with your circuit, the supply to the DRL side is cut completely when the main headlamps are switched on. With the OP's integrated lamp units, the DRL will be on bright with the light switch off, dim when the side lights are on, and off when the main headlamps are...

Dipped beam will still function as it should, as the blue/red wires are joined together. But by using the red/orange wire, it just means the DRL will turn off or dim as soon as the side lights are switched on which is how they're supposed to work.

That's a neat repurpose of the existing circuit. :) ideally you'd use the red/orange sidelight feed to trigger the relay rather than dipped beam.

How many people buy 25 year-old used cars? Not really applicable. The point is that tdi lumps aren't indestructible, and wear out like any other engine. In 2009 there were still a plethora of cheap, rusty discos around with decent engines ripe for pillaging, but 10 years later a bit more...

I'd be wanting to rebuild any tdi first before putting it in anything. Remember they are all 20-30 years old now and most won't be in a disco anymore so no chance of seeing it running beforehand.

OK, but: DRLs are more effective than the dipped beam headlights. The dipped beam bulbs then last longer (admittedly a small gain but they're less likely to fail when you actually need them.) Tail lamps off is better in daylight as the brake lights are then more conspicuous. Agreed on...

Wiring them directly into the side lights will make them come on full brightness at night which will be too bright. Unless the 'ignition live' connection and 'side light' wires are both tapped into the sidelight feed- in this case they will just come on dim with the side lights with no DRL...

Any series 3 will need to have headlights in the outboard position due to the changes in the lighting regulations which specified a maximum distance from the edge of the car- effectively outlawing the older setup. You could fit both sets and have four headlamps- after 1991 you are only allowed...

Should be three wires to the switch. Solid green is 12v in, and you will have green/yellow and green/grey out to the motor. One is slow speed and powers the motor via a resistor (internal to the heater unit) and the other is for high speed and bypasses the resistor. The slider also closes a flap...

I always found on my 90 that full beam was pretty good (with the original sealed beam candles replaced by halogen) and good enough for most uses. As Nobber said, changing tired old bulbs and overhauling the wiring can make a big difference. Just like how new standard springs will improve the...

The only problem with too many extra spots is the difference in output between them and low beam. While perma-noon spots are great for driving down an empty road, your eyes adjust to that light level and then when oncoming traffic causes you to switch back to a single low beam pair, you can't...

I found using the Millers diesel additive helped my old 19J-powered 90. Seemed to run smoother, quieter and with less smoke.

If you've got a snorkel that's probably the best route. Just needs a discreet hole drilling in the front wing. Worth fitting a suitable waterproof connector at the top so you can easily remove the roof rack for whatever reason.