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Dim dip relay is the culprit. It's an old feature which got carried over to some 2.4tdci models. It passes voltage to the low-beam filaments through a resistor when the ignition and sidelights are on, the idea being that you use them in built-up areas with street lighting. It shouldn't be an MOT...

Looking for a petrol engine for the 109 in the interests of originality and ease of build. Ideally I'd like a 2.5 but they are few and far between. So: if I'm rebuilding a 2.25 anyway, is it as simple as fitting a 2.5 crank and pistons? 5 main bearing engine to start with, obviously. I figure...

I've got one. It says 'Land Rover Centre Leicestershire' on it but a coat of black spray paint would hide that. You're welcome to it if you find yourself in the midlands...

Had a change of heart with the 109 build. It was originally a petrol, so petrol it should be! (Much better than a clattery tdi or noisy and slow NA!) Plus no need for an overdrive at least to begin with. 2.5 would be ideal but if not, a late 2.25 will do just fine.

I did the same on my 90. Worked fine. Taking the spare off the door and stowing it inside helps a bit too.

Mostly straight and unmolested. Mileage is around 120k. Definitely only 3 doors but would be uncommon to have anyone in the back anyway. As for servicing, the present owner has had it for around 4 years and I've helped him with the servicing so it's been reasonably well kept. Will have another...

Looks like it's using the original speedo, geared down so that 1km/h becomes 1mph. In which case, the accumulated km should have been corrected to the equivalent number of miles at the same time. Otherwise, the mileage will have accumulated some distance at 1/km in Japan, then started counting...

Looking into getting a 300tdi 3-door out of my mate's yard. Trouble is, there's not many of them out there so it's hard to get a reference point for price so I can come up with a reasonable offer. It's all there, needs a sill welding which he'll do and a new back door mechanism (which I'll...

There's a chamfer in the top corner of the wheel boxes to allow the seats to fit and still leave a gap so you can get in and out (if you're skinny). In an older vehicle you end up with little to no space between the seats so you can't get out without folding one seat up. This is a major safety...

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What I mean is that if fueling is controlled by the MAF, the ECU may increase fuelling in response without any remap. I suppose the de-rate based on the intake air temperature sensor may be held off for longer too. But of course, remapping the ECU to account for the extra air will give the best...

The only time an intercooler by itself kight give an upgrade is on a modern diesel where fuelling is limited by the MAF. Increasing the massflow by cooling the intake charge will allow more fuel tovbe injected without exceeding any smoke limitations.

Buy a 300tdi discovery with rotten bodywork but good chassis, put a series cab on it. It then keeps the disco registration/identity. Oh and buy some ear defenders to offset the racket of a tdi in a series. Or just get a series and use it for what it is.

Shouldn't be a dim-dip relay on a 2.2 defender. It was there on the 2.4 for some models but never on any 2.2 I've come across. Haved you checked the indicator/dip switch? Although there's a headlight relay, the full load from that relay still goes through the dip switch.

How about a tdi exhaust manifold and turbo? Standard 2.25 compression ratio is fairly turbo-friendly. Maybe turn the wastegate back a bit though. Alternatively, have the head skimmed (while converting it to unleaded) to up the compression a bit. You'll gain power and efficiency. Forgot to check...

If you use the Disco chassis plus enough original parts from the Disco (at least initially) such as axles, suspension and gearbox, you should be able to keep the Disco's original registration. The chassis has to be unaltered though, so any brackets to mount the series bodywork to the chassis...

Agreed. Less hassle than messing around with importing a vehicle which you'll then sell for less money than you could have sold it for originally. Or just import it, keep it and live with LHD. You can do a RHD conversion but it's not cheap and rarely makes economic sense.

From what I've found tinkering, the rear light clusters should be interchangeable in that the wiring should be in place to accomodate both types. So if you have indicator-less lights and want to add them (or vice versa) then it's just a matter of swapping the light clusters and changing the...