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You have the 12J engine which is slow but fairly bombproof. The 19J is fundamentally the same but with a few internal modifications to allow for turbocharging. They have a not entirely deserved reputation for going wrong. If you aren't in a hurry (if you are, don't buy an old Land Rover) the NA...

The other thing you did was to take an unmodified range rover chassis, and shorten a 109 body to fit. "100-inch hybrids" were a thing when both series' (with good bodywork and rotten chassis) and range rovers (with the opposite) were cheaply available.

Buying a complete vehicle is the way to go. That way you know everything is there rather than having a vague shopping list for odd parts which you don't have. Park them side-by-side, swap the relevant parts over, reassemble the donor car as a hardtop, and sell it on!

As everyone else has said, if you just run unleaded you may get some valve seat recession but with regular servicing you can deal with it by valve clearance adjustment. When it gets too severe, then you get the head refurbished and hardened seats fitted.

Sounds like the viscous coupling has failed, causing the noise in corners as the rear wheels take a different path to the fronts and need to turn at different speeds. Common problem on Freelanders and not cheap to repair. Which is why you see a lot for sale with the prop taken off: "I converted...

I had a CSW which I carpeted the back of! Made the back seats a bit of a nicer place to sit, but there was then an obvious gap in the trim between the window surrounds and the carpet, which the speaker panels filled in nicely. The thing about the Mudstuff console is it looks quite similar to the...

If you're looking at adding any extra switches or gauges as well, the Mudstuff console would look like the best option for mounting the head unit, especially as the standard radio pod is a bit shallow for some head units. As for speakers, the OEM location is fine but doesn't work with deeper...

It's not a simple (or cheap) job- you need the steering box, dashboard, interior wiring, windscreen wipers and a lot of smaller parts, plus a lot of swapping parts between left and right. JE Engineering in Coventry can do LHD conversions.

On the subject of brakes and suspension, I would stick with basically standard. Aftermarket parts marketed as "heavy duty" sound great, but unless you're actually loading the Landy down with a lot of stuff they will give a very harsh ride. Same with big lift kits which ruin the suspension...

I used the original harness as a guide- lay it out on a big piece of board and stick nails in where the various branches are to make a template. Mark on it where each connector lands. Use a combination of examination and a multimeter to test where each wire goes, and make notes. Then you buy the...

I built a new engine wiring harness for my old 90 after the original was damaged. They're very simple engines electrically. If yours has been replaced with a 300tdi you can make something up to match the newer engine with the original vehicle.

https://landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-i-installed-drls.296337/ Here's how I did it.

On my old 90 I had brake light bulbs fitted in the front sidelight position (with white lenses obviously.) The dim circuit was used for sidelights and the brighter circuit wired up as DRLs. Worked well and without adding anything externally to the front of the Landy.

Series 1 and 2 headlights are too close together for a tdi-age vehicle. There's a maximum distance from the edge of the body which later vehicles have to meet. (Road vehicle lighting regulations 1989) You may get it through an MOT test but it's dubious if you get stopped for anything else. So...

Legally you should have front marker lights on the caravan too. So rather than bodging two light boards together, strip out the existing non-working lights and install some new ones from scratch.

So, like I suggested, modify the wiring so that the TCU thinks its in low range, then when you press the mode switch, you will have manual selection via the D321 positions.

You can use the 321 positions to manually downshift the gears- in 3 it will be locked out of 4th gear and only use 1st, 2nd and 3rd. I rarely find a need to manually upshift in an automatic- most of the time you want to kick it down a gear in preparation for overtaking, for example. The TCU will...

Yes the same engine is used in the Ranger as well. So the gearbox will more or less bolt straight up.

I always found this with my 90. Fitting new bushes all round made a massive difference as all the parts are then pointing in the right direction. It then rode surprisingly well, with the exception of going over speed bumps where it tended to pitch around a lot. The rear axle is right at the...

There's JE Engineering in Coventry. They do a bolt-in conversion using the 6-speed transmission from a Ford Ranger- mostly for the later TDCi engines but they might be able to help.