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3TXD or 17TN for an AS10 :) If you already have a fob, it will be on the back in teeny tiny writing (failing that, crack it open and it might be printed on the circuit board inside)

Easy. But you have to make sure you get the right fob (I got the wrong one to start). Mine finally worked with a 3TXD (and 17TN) that I got from eBay. Initially, I got a 3TXA and that didn't work (so on a side note, if anybody wants to buy a 3XTA fob, let me know...). Also, check the PCB inside...

This is a good page from the Land Rover site... mentions most of the above. I quite like (and hearty agree with) BE PREPARED TO ADMIT DEFEAT! http://www.landrover.co.uk/ownership/guides-and-manuals/off-road-driving.html

Weirdly, I literally just came across my list of possible suspects and associated fixes for a similar problem I had; Listed by location and ease of fix (mine was a defender TD5 so maybe some differences); Drivers seat Oil in ECU (contact cleaner) Relays under drivers seat (faulty or corroded...

Think that was my suggestion. Do I win a prize?!? ;)

It always works fine until it doesn't :) If I go over a yump at speed, I get the same issue so assume it's cable tightening or rubbing somewhere (my money is on crank sensor just not got around to diagnosing properly)

Something wet from wading, ECU connectors perhaps? Coincidence and it's injector seals/washers? Stretched/chaffed crank sensor?

Exactly, and for £15, it's a no-brainer!

I walked in to my local Halfords and picked up the axel stands no problem. They had a good few boxes on the shelf too.

All this Black Friday stuff does get on my nerves a bit, but there are some decent deals to be had. Just spotted these on Halfrauds (sorry if already mentioned)...

Super, thank you. I think it's an R380 (but not actually looked to be honest)

Already done the engine oil, filter and rotor (and rocker gasket, and injector washers, seals and loom). Will be doing one-shot and UJs at same time. I've got a pump for difficult to reach bits :) Do you know what size washer for the gear box, that's th only bit I don't have.

Ha, only just getting around to this now. Just back from the motor factors £70 lighter. Got oil for gear box, transfer box and diffs. Will I need any copper washers etc.? Ta in advance

Ha, would never have thought of this. Great for emergency situations when out and about in the middle of nowhere or on expedition (especially if you have a split-charge system). I'll now make sure i've got some welding sticks in the car... (sorry if it's old news and been posted before, I...

I just bought a hankook 130ah 1000cca jobby. Happy with it so far but not got much to go on yet. Old battery wasn't holding charge so thought I'd get it replaced before snowmageddon (ha). 4 year warranty too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/281697844761

I have done all of the above apart from keeping it on separate circuits. I did originally, but when I closed the door the door card pressed the button/switches and moved my seat position :)

Stops the old coat hanger trick (fully appreciate you can just bend the door back) but more importantly, it stops more rattles :)

I have labeled my picture. Just bear in mind i'm lucky enough to have the female socket too, which you might not have so the colours are different. I have put what you should have to make it easier to visualise. I don't know what kind of switch you have so can't help there. Mine is a switch...

From memory, I think the heat circuit and movement circuit may possibly share an earth, but that is it. Treat them as two separate circuits or join them together like I did so you are sharing a common earth and live to the relay (the picture I sent before of me holding the relay in my hand)

As far as i'm aware, you will need a separate switch for the relay. Well, I guess you could use one of the seat switches but that's a massive arse ache. I have my switch mounted next to the hazards. I have both the movement and heated seats wired together. So, to move the seat I do need to...