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I've had the same problem in the past & we are in rural Essex o_O Currently the RRC is with Lancaster for £137 inc. agreed value & it's parked on the drive. I'm apprehensive about the renewal premium due in August as my advanced age is also a factor.

If your RR is (or could be) classed as a classic specialist insurers will often offer a good deal, based on limited annual mileage & even offer an agreed value .. however this type of insurance is not usually available for a daily driver as you need to have the use of another car for that...

Indicative of the crap manuf. are turning out in the expectation that people will spend their hard-earned on.

Definitely not on the 3.5. I think I am right in saying that any engine that has a distributor will not have a CPS.

Had my RRC (with sun-roof) done at a local place last year, including repairs to the backing, for £300. Surprised to find such a fault in a modern prestige car like yours, a problem normally associated with old motors :oops:

Very professional job, not my choice of colour .. but each to his own ;)

When it comes to EV's in general batteries seem to be lasting for many years/miles, but as you will read on this forum JLR seems to buck the trend. Personally I wouldn't buy a JLR product regardless of how it was powered, but then I'm just an old cynic & my opinion probably doesn't count for...

My 3.9 suffered the dreaded liner slippage at around 80k. Still think the 'cost saving' LPG conversion (converted 10k miles previously) was a contributory factor. Did indeed save me money, right up to the point when a new short motor was needed :rolleyes:

Not just Land Rover, anyone contemplating ownership of motor vehicles built over the past decade or so risk facing the same pain in the wallet. Once the warranty expires .. :oops:

Thanks guys .. I'll keep you posted on the subject of 'holes' once the work is done in a week or so. Essentially the removal of the plastic is to allow the body shop to treat some surface corrosion at the bottom of the black painted wheel arch sections (visible when the rear doors are opened)...

Having another senior moment :oops: Need to remove the black plastic sill trims from my '87 RRC. Do I remember correctly that you just knock the old plastic rivet centres through into the sills themselves, then use new rivets to re-fit the sills ? Thanks guys.

Not a transmission brake anymore then?

When you say 'rough' do you mean it's not running on all 8, or just uneven? If the former I would suspect plugs or leads. What's the mileage? Stalling when engaging D or R could denote too slow a idle speed. My 3.5efi idles (running temp.) at just short of 1000 in P or N, dropping to 600 when D...

:rolleyes::D

I was going to suggest psychiatric help, but that could be considered offensive :rolleyes: Nothing like doing your homework & as already suggested speak to your insurance broker.

Never any harm going for a few extra AH's ;) Problem with the RRC is finding a larger battery that will fit the tray as it's a bit restrictive. Glad you are sorted.

Or me in my Classic :rolleyes: 'Oh I know .. 60 years of driving experience.

I've had my '87 3.5efi auto for nearly 16 years. A good 20w/50 mineral oil with high ZDDP content changed every year or 3k miles. These engines, the design of which can be traced back to the 'sixties, were never designed for 'slippery' oil :rolleyes:

This has become a problem with parts for old cars, not just LR products. So called 'genuine' components have long since been unavailable (even to those owners that could afford to pay the premium prices) so aftermarket suppliers make a killing by satisfying demand. Nobody knows where such...

Never had a bad shunt in any of my 5 series LR's owned in the distant past, but just after I had sold my last RRC to my friend he did experience a head-on with a Renault Clio driven by a moron. Such was the impact that the front tow ring of the RR went through the Clio's windshield as the rest...