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Welcome Aboard :) The '38 is probably the only LR you can take to the sea side without it turning into bran flakes as you watch ! - certainly don't take my D1 near the sea :eek: :D

I have no idea if the BMS will tolerate that, or if it will throw a hissy fit.. o_O I would have thought that it would be perfectly reasonable to design a system that allows the vehicle to be powered down, for safety or repair purposes, :) and then re-powered using the same battery without the...

PM received and replied to, ETM sent..:) The diode is in the passenger foot well - it's just a zener diode in some heat-shrink tubing.. If you could answer the other questions in post #6 it will help..;) Did diagnostics show the door opening and closing ? Mine do - worth buying your own, they...

This is pretty weird IME, its simply a set of PDF files - which are indexed from the main start file.. I've tried to attach the D1 ETM, which should help, and be infinitely better than the Haynes..BUT, the forum is broken for some reason at the mo.. Presuming you have email, PM me, ( with...

First thing I would do, is disconnect the switch completely, insulate the spade connector and see if that at least gets you mobile.. Then I'd be extracting the door sw wire from the structure, to check its integrity.. I don't understand why this issue is preventing the vehicle starting...

Pretty sure the later RRC have the same seatbelts...

Nice to see some else on my soapbox, or one of them!! :) Sons BM doesn't have a dipstick - the 'puter tells you how much oil is in the engine - but not the gearbox, which is "sealed for life" :rolleyes: :mad::mad:

FFS! Amen. IIRC, my our SIIA, which I passed my test in had the same battery on for at least ten years.. pretty sure when it was done being able to start a vehicle, it went on electric fence duty, probably for another ten years... I actually remember weighing the thing in !

What he said ^^^ :)

Yet another revenue earning solution for a problem which doesn't exist.. :rolleyes:

Rather than spend any money at a "garage", spend some money on a battery tester ( my choice is the TopDon BT50 - on the bay and the zone for £50 ish ), and some proper diagnostics so you know what is going on, and/or can post the codes and data on here so we can either laugh, or cry at the issue...

Pardon ? :D

ECU for the AT can be done with a Compushift computer, but is not cheap.. I would have thought the '38 BECM will throw a hissy fit without all its expected inputs.. probably a standalone ECU for the engine, but carbs might be a better option - certainly easier, but not as fuel efficient..

Welcome Aboard :) +1, forget taking to a "garage" - it'll end in tears IME .. Also, put some pictures up on here of your rust, and we either laugh, or give you proper advice ... or more likely.. both :D

Welcome Aboard :) Got any piccies - we likez picciez ;) There's an agriculture thread in Anything Goes section of the forum.. would be worth putting some pics of your crofting activities in there, if you want to.. :)

So, it appears your mechanic is saying there is a ridge in the bore within 2 of the cylinders of your engine.. this might be true, but seems rather unlikely.. unless the engine is made of chocolate, which, being a modern LR, might be 100% the case :rolleyes: .. Then, said mechanic also says this...

+1. OP, Are the garage who did the job a LR specialist ? - it's quite easy to check the timing of the FIP through the inspection cover in the tc cover.. worth doing IMO. Even checking:) the cam timing isn't a mare of a job ..

Have you got a boost gauge ? worth having IMO, and will rule out air leaks and boost leaks from collapsed hoses.. How does the engine sound when you rev it ? does it sound suffocated, or is it lean cutting ?

IMO, you're better sticking with the devil you know - What are you going to replace it with which will be less complicated, or as rust proof ? Serious question! P38 electrical maladies are very well understood now, especially on here.. Water ingress to the footwell causes all sorts of verdigris...

Mirrors my experience - 1) My rear diff input flange was very loose - no noise at all until about 65-70, then it sounded the old push bike with a piece or card in the wheel spokes trick - only louder and resonating throughout the vehicle.. o_O - took it to bits, cleaned it up, loctite 270 on...