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+1 - Fertan in very good IME. I use bonda primer - nasty and very good at sticking IME - the original oxide paints were very good, but since the lead was removed, they don't seem to work ... I then overcoat with Tractol enamel - this will stand up to cow sh*t - so, in other words is good stuff...

My needle scaler produces a finish which could be described as above, so probably normal.. the black spots are probably where the rust has eaten in beyond the reach of the needles IME.. ( I.E. smaller pits than the needles ).. Blasting with grit will get into these pits - or chemical conversion...

The original seals can be a cow - they were made properly, and will have grown in to the casting over the years - so significant force and plenty of blue air is often required :rolleyes:.. OP - I thought Bergen tools were "OK" - I'd see if you can send that back .. lets them know it was...

You'll fit right in!! :D

Welcome Aboard :) AS post #2 - pics please - we likez picz ;)

Welcome Aboard :) More pics of the LR please - looks an interesting project ..

Welcome Aboard :) They are a lovely motor, but far too much technology for me, and where we live ;) Put some piccies up when the forum allows o_O :D

Last picture in post #9 is looking better - on the other welds your voltage was too low.. I use Bonda Primer - it's full of goodness - and then tractol enamel on top of that, then Dinitrol UB wax - which lasts well, but does need re-coating every couple of years ...

A well sorted RRC is a joy - they are lovely - used to have a new one every year - wish I had kept one of them, but hey ho - a D1 isn't a bad substitute, but ... I keep looking at them, but haven't yet found one which isn't at least as bad as you describe - I.E. patches on patches, and...

IMHO, you are wrong with this - they are well worth replacing, as the more modern "vehicles" are just collection of ECU's looking for an excuse to throw a hissy fit..;) Assuming its still in gear on the TB, then have you tried putting it in 1st, and seeing if it drives then ? .. There's a load...

+1 on the hose being the issue - they delaminate. Cheap fix. :) Alternatively, if you're feeling flush, you could convert it to auto - no more clutch problems, ever :D:D o_O

@Mellbell - I have emailed you the ETM ... but for your own sanity, remove your email address from the post above !!! I'm not going manual because I'm disabled, and manuals are crap IMO.. I'm actually collecting all the parts to convert SWMBO's D1 manual to auto too. :) If you want to go...

I've taken the EDC off my auto too - still auto, and staying auto. I left the EDC wiring in place - just sealed it all under heatshrink.. My own MFU issues appeared to start with the courtesy lights flickering, which is often failure of one of the relays in the alarm system, but in my case it...

IIRC, LZ is being migrated to a new server ATM, and there are a few teething problems...

As both posts above - there isn't much difference - mainly an update to the functionality - for instance, the Fog light circuit changed from a switched on/off, ( so, it would come back on next time the headlights were switched on ), to a momentary switch, with the latching of the relay being...

IIRC, Mike at Brittanica restorations on the tube did an excellent vid on the tube regarding re-trimming a SIII dash, and which materials and glues to use ..

It sounds very much like you have a loose connection somewhere in the TPS loom/connections of .. but it could be the TPS itself.. Any codes ?

HTH :) - I've found a battery tested incredibly useful, for "home" and work - removes all doubt - Plus, in the unlikely event you get a duff "new" ( AKA NeverEverWorked :D ) one, a photo of the screen sent to the seller convinces them of same, and Bob is your Mother's brother again.. ;) .. :)...

+1. Mechanical diesels of this vintage, unless they are mechanically kaput will just do this.. Our 1956 tractor is the same - doesn't run for years, and then just starts when needed :)

I think we need a lot more information here :) .. Because:- Makes no sense to me o_O .. Sadly, I have had more than my fair share of electrical gremlins to fix on D1's too :mad: