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  1. S

    distributor installation

    I am having trouble trying to locate the distributor so that the rotor arm turns properly. From what I can tell, I have to: Insert the coupling (549611) and place that correctly with its offset teeth sitting nicely in the driver below. Insert the distributor so that the dog on the end with its...
  2. S

    starter motor questions

    I have new cables (1) earth from battery to chassis 2) from battery to solenoid 3) from solenoid to starter. Old solenoid though, but given my test with tractor battery bypassed all this (as i used jump leads direct), i am thinking the starter motor is too tired for the job.
  3. S

    starter motor questions

    thanks for feedback - i did put oil on everything as i put it all back, including some assembly oil in the depths. I took a fat battery off a tractor i have, fully charged, and tried that with jump leads. It was slightly better, did manage to turn the fly wheel probably 1/8 turn (i.e. to the...
  4. S

    starter motor questions

    I am inching towards having a go at starting the engine, but not there yet. The engine has been re-bored, honed, new bearings, seals, rebuilt head etc. I have installed it on the chassis, but i have not installed the gearbox yet. I connected up the starter motor, ignition switch, battery and...
  5. S

    275679 Oil Bypass Pipe location

    tracked it down, thanks. found one banjo but not the other.
  6. S

    275679 Oil Bypass Pipe location

    I can't work out where this is supposed to go - i took it off the car but my photos don't show me where from. Can someone help. (Need to track down the banjo bolts which i have put down somewhere). Thanks
  7. S

    Engine installation and running

    I did use a crane thingy. I will put support under the sump and rest it on that and maybe have the crane taking a bit of weight as a safety measure
  8. S

    Engine installation and running

    My plan was to install the newly rebuilt engine on the bare chassis, add the ancillaries, test the engine, and then sort out clutch and install the gearbox. Today I have got the engine on the chassis, sitting on the two front engine mounts. At the rear of the engine, I have the lip of the sump...
  9. S

    Timing cover oil seal replacement

    makes sense, many thanks
  10. S

    camshaft installation

    Following the Haynes instructions, I cleaned and lubricated the bushes and the camshaft and carefully installed it. I then fitted the camshaft thrust plate. The manual says i need to check the camshaft end float. I am a bit confused. At the moment, the camshaft cannot move in one longitudinal...
  11. S

    Timing cover oil seal replacement

    I saw on YouTube brittanicca restorations that he removed the metal ring oil seal cover that (on his engine) had been attached with machine screws: mine has the original rivets holding it on. do I need to remove this cover, when I can push the oil seal in from behind and leave the cover as it...
  12. S

    Which RTV (easily available?)

    I have ordered the Wurth, as that has next day delivery. Thanks
  13. S

    Which RTV (easily available?)

    Having given up on the cork seals for the Crankshaft Cap seal, i am going to take the advice and use RTV. Brittanicca uses Loctite 5580. I would be happy to get this but it takes a few days postage. If there something on Amazon Prime that works as well that i can get in a day or so?
  14. S

    Fitting cork crankshaft T seals

    i know the real challenge is fitting the bearing caps in the block, but before i get to that stage, i need to fit my new cork t seals in their slots. As you can see the cork is much wider than the slot. I have soaked them overnight in oil, and also cut a very small chamfer to try and help them...
  15. S

    anti rattle clip on transfer gear lever

    I can't work out how to install this. Obviously, there is a clip-sized cut-out on the ball in the middle of the lever, but when i push the clip into the cut-out, it makes a leap for freedom and hides under the gearbox. I have tried moving the ball up into position in the round-hole bracket with...
  16. S

    Crank shaft main seal spring

    As per your advice, i have decided to wait for the hook-and-eye. I did remove the seal and have a closer look - from i can tell, the spring on this is not designed to come apart. Despite lots of twisting and wiggling, there was no sign that the join was going to part. I could not see anything on...
  17. S

    con rod nuts

    new nuts on order. many thanks for advice
  18. S

    engine / gearbox installation order

    New chassis is now ready for installation of the rebuilt engine and the gearbox. I was thinking i would install the engine, all the ancillaries and see if i can get the engine running nicely, and then i would install the clutch / gearbox. However, i have seen on some posts, it is best to...
  19. S

    con rod nuts

    I noticed that the nuts i took off my con rods look like the ERC1029 part in my parts manual i.e. a nut with a nyloc-looking head. I was therefore thinking i ought to replace these with new ones - but when i look on the web ERC1029 has been superseded by ETC5155, which looks like a nut with no...
  20. S

    Crank shaft main seal spring

    Long story – with the question at the end: I ordered one of these from paddocks – it came with the Outer rubber ring (with the split to fit over the crankshaft) Inner spring that sits in the outer rubber ring Plus the 2 cork T seals. I had seen on YouTube videos that the inner spring comes in...
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