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It isn't so much the initial tightness as the heat distortion and the metal oxidising. Stainless will definitely help but the heat cycles will take their toll.

When did that start?!

I think the Torx might be less likely to round off than the Allen heads.

As above but it does sound like the plastic gears might be stripped.

If you bought it off a dealer the engine and drive-train is guaranteed for 6 months. Don't touch a thing but take it back to them. Private sale is trickier but work through the electrical troubleshooting guide.

For some reason I thought it was 4000 pulses per mile. Maybe they doubled up between C and D? Or maybe I just misremembered. I'm guessing there's a connector behind the A-post for it? Famous place for bad connections. The EAS needs a speed signal too. Wonder what that shows?

Most likely a pin in a connector not making good contact.

Talk to @kurtjohnson10

I have a vague memory of a post on RR.net of someone shimming the air-con compressor on some years. Never had any issues with mine other than the TXV failing so it vents the gas.

Same engine in the Disco and the Jag? Plastic ones that warp?

Possibly. They'll be on the back. Someone explained what each one did in the post. Mine pretty much matches the GPS at all speeds so whoever did mine at the factory must have been on form. No other car I've ever had has been that close. Means it can be done! I don't know if it is the ABS module...

I would check at the battery with DVM. I don't think all the diag screens show the right voltage. Also worth checking voltage with engine running and all electrics (headlights) on. EDIT: I see things moved on! Worth upgrading the alternator gubbins for sure.

I wonder how it holds in the wet? I tend to use Quiksteel where water involved.

There are a couple of pots on the back of the instrument cluster that calibrate how the speedo shows the speed signal given from the BECM. I'm sure I saw a post from someone who fiddled with them. Might have been on here or RR.net. Might be easier to try a spare one off eBay although remember...

Think I got mine from Island-4x4 last time but Rimmer Bros are more reliable.

There's a good one somewhere near Chesham but I don't know if that is within your range. I'd have to get a friend to remind me what they're called.

Is it going out of range because set too high? An isolation switch sounds good but wouldn't it give the dreaded 35 mph max message?

My Nissens rad has been on there about ten years, maybe a few years longer but has been fine so far, although it did struggle up Lodge Hill when towing a 3 ton digger.

N2O NRF 52129.

Can you remember which member was doing a lot of towing and was buying a triple core one from somewhere? iirc he said yhe original LR one was double the Nissens one but he'd found something bigger than that?