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Soneone on here got an all ally one from somewhere that seemed decent. Cannot recall the name. Regazzi? @Mark Piercy might remember.

Pretty easy with the adapter and following the instructions in RAVE. Hot start usually starts cold but not hot. Won't help starting cold as it just tricks the car into thinking it is cold. I would always time up as per RAVE first. You might tweak the modulation with a Nanocom afterwards...

You can do almost anything with a Nanocom, so yes.

As you say, could be all sorts of things. I'm a little worried the rad might be pushing the caps off enough to weep when hot though. Best exclude that possibility if it is easy (cheap) to do so.

It does sound like it is pressurising. I might be tempted to take the expansion cap off and then remove the spark plugs one by one and pressurise using an airline but keep an eye on the water level in the expansion tank.

No, should be able to access the bokts without moving glove-box.

Can you test the fuel pressure at the rail? Probably worth a compression test too.

So battery seems too tired to crank but five minutes later cranks it over no problem and it starts with no issues? I'd be thinking bad connection somewhere, probably the earth. Or the earth cable is bad inside. I'd go through the electrical troubleshooting guide on rr.net. There's a cooy on...

No. Apart from anything else the lack of buttons doesn't seem safe to me. I fitted parking sensors to mine. Easy enough. A phone using Waze is as good as any sat-nav.

From memory I think it is ignition on but no movement to connectbto ABS computer. Check for green verdigris on the OBD socket.

Should roar on startup but quieten down after a minute or so. Shouldn't roar again unless it starts overheating. So fan must be seized and therefore a duff one. Edit: just seen it quietens down after it warms a bit so all good.

Noid lights?

A Dixon-Bate plate could be useful.

Really? Mine's fine, although it is a little slow for a second after the aircon kicks in before it responds and gets back to 750 rpm.

Not looked but the oil feed to the crankshaft bearings is not up the the job and they tend to weld themselves to the crank. A quick Google search will bring up hundreds of threads.

Pretty sure there's a member near the New Forest with a Nanocom but cannot recall their name.

When engine is up to normal temperature it should idle at 750 rpm unless someone has played with diag to increase it or had the top of the FIP off and not put it back properly.

Get it up to temperature, release the pressure from the cap and see if it keeps repressurising.

Don't know that engine but I'm thinking some electronic component getting hot and failing when hot, like a sensor (cam / crank). I guess it might even be a temperature sensor or something that primes the fuel pressure before starting? If it is Lucas injection it could be anything!

I would suggest a deposit. Unfortunately a few tool sets have gone missing over the years which is why some are a little loathe to let them out of their sight.