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Worth mentioning, dont drive any amount of distance in 4wd or low range on a grippy surface (tarmac), or do any manovering either, you will increase wear on the transmission and its not unkown to twist off half shafts

On a series there is no centre diff, when you are out of 4wd and in high range you are only in rear wheel drive, when you engage 4wd or put it in low range your go into 4wd but the front and rear prop are locked together, like a locked centre diff

Even 99p a set chinese taps are not softer than your steel chassis, 'It has now been cleaned out properly', well clearly not if an M10 bolt is still tight, I therefore maintain my previous wish that somebody else did this for you

Can you describe where abouts that picture is taken? What area are we looking at?

Crownwheel and pinion worn out in the back? Or some of the bearings in the back diff?

If your tap winds in but not the bolts, then clearly you are not noticing something quite obvious, please let somebody else do this job for you

Should someone be fitting a towbar if they are not compentant enough to wind correct threads into holes without resulting in them going so tight they shear off This a safety critcical item, somebody messing with such areas of a motor vehicle should be completely confident before they attempt to...

Yeah but it's not just the power, it's how it will tow, I'm sure a LC will handle better and probably stop and not tend to tram line and wonder like an old 110 would

Aren't the studs on the mounts the the runbers that you have undone at an angle each side? You might be better off doing these back up if you're hoping the mount will slide past the block, if the sump sticks out 40 or 50 thou it will soon all go tight and not let it come free

Thought you were giving away a whole landy given the section it's in

Boost above atmospheric, my standard stack boost gaug reads 0 when still and goes to 1.9

Good luck finding one to do the job with the spare on the bonnet, and somewhere to mount it given the mechanical disadvantage you'll have against all that weight

Yes, but I think timing ring is better suited as it alters timing not boost, well, maybe boost as result haha

Standard turbo, no boost pin, pump adjusted in certain areas, timing ring fitted and adjusted, EGT creeps to 700c pre turbo on really long steep hill, normal hills it keeps pulling over 80

You really wont be happy with performace without turbo, I'm running 1.9 bar so I know I wouldn't be happy if I lost that!

I very much plan on going, was very good last year as was Kelmarsh this year

No

Is 30mm going to make enough difference to be worth the extra strain, remembering you'll be adding on the 30mm in the direction the wheel is pointing, so might only gain 10-15mm

Are your tyres limiting your useable lock at the moment?

You did buy a land rover defender not a mini, or a dodgems car