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Thank you, All the lights work and look original even if the front lights have night breaker bulbs It's the details, when thinking on what's to do, forget the details like for me bump stop to be mount, but it's on now The black paints so shiny, can see my orange Overalls. Tie off the loom...

Got some new lights fir front. One was a fair bit milky on the chrome Lots of cleaning up and cleaning contacts ect Broken O rings had let a fair bit o muck into the repeaters But they're looking lovely now New O rings and bulbs too Fitted a new bumper, same as factory, not even with the...

After cleaning up with flappy disc, painted over The exposed metal with etch primer, and mixed some 2K paint Thanks to it being dry, albeit a bit cold, was able to get some paint sprayed over the repaired areas to protect them; and before fitting a new spring and seat. I had to warm the...

After welding the layers together, I should have modified the card former. But I hacked Boris off the piece to get it to fit, so there was more space than needed 🤬 But it's welded in and thanks to a break in the weather and having just enough gas If I clean it up a bit, it's good to paint and...

I did buy a new loom from Sparks Being the Pick-Up, it's the cheapest one having less going on. I did add an ignition powered cable for the caravan fridge and battery charging, which was further taped over with proper loom vinyl tape, and covered it all in corrugated plastic conduit, which I...

I'll weld them together first before fitting a 4mm plate flush. The original combined thickness of 5.2mm was at the top and bottom, and 2.2mm in the center. So I'm hoping the 4mm plate I have a sheet of will be more than strong enough. It's raining most of the time, but I can get it done...

Got it, and there's a doubled up parts top and bottom Just trying to decide 1, Replace with one piece of 4mm metal 2, replace with two 3mm parts and cover with 2mm piece. I'm kind of thinking to weld the two plates together inside You can see on left of cut out. So it would be one piece...

Trying to cut the last bit of rot from O/S rear, which I found on Sunday. Couldn't do anything yesterday because of constant rain. Using a thin cutting disc to get a good look pattern to work from. I couldn't see this from inside because it's double up metal, so was behind my internal view. The...

Longer inner wheel arch mud flaps, good idea. As you say the original plastic sheet hangs too high to stop crude filling the crossmember, and with the visible mud flaps mounted behind, they only benefit vehicles behind, as far as I can see. I will spray Waxoyl in the cavity and make sure water...

The fabricated galvanised part Is definitely better than the original part of a replaced rear crossmember. I made the towing socket bracket from a scrap 3mm steel piece, which took a bit of fettling. And I coded the 13 pin wires to the Landy colours and fitted Lucas brass connectors; which...

I'm slowly restoring a1982 Series 3 Station wagon. Recreated most of the front. But I've noticed many of the parts replaced, like out riggers have gone to tin worm more quickly than the original metal. She's a 12 seater, and I've restored the bulkhead already. It's in Raptor primer and lives...

Managed to get the galv part I fabricated welded in yesterday, just before the rain started again! Small dogs on the hunt for mice 😄 I will tidy the welds up a bit, when weather permits, and found another small area needs sorting on the inside of chassis leg, which I'd missed. But now's the time...

Lol, haven't actually used jack yet. Maybe it is useless! Cutting a new holder for the 13 pin socket I use fir towing my caravan. Mine needs to be in the original position for my cable to reach. Got some 3mm scrap will do. The 13 pin socket is much more weather proof than the 12N 12S ones used...

Just some tidying up and folding And cutting two, one fir other side I always use respirator, especially with galv metal ⚠️🫁☠️, and the wee plasma cutter is a great bit of kit 👍

Here's hoping, Got some nice galv 2mm sheet which should do. Been using 3mm on the chassis leg. I'll keep the jack tube, since have original jacking kit and like factory. However do use a farm jack on Gigi the 1975 S3.

I wondered why the mud flaps are not used to protect this area a bit more. Is that a 13 pin towing socket by your fog light? I've got a new rear loom and have a tow socket to fit, once the welding is done.

Made pattern from recycled cereal box. Will leave putting holes in until new metal part fettled in place, I may have a piece of galv sheet that could do nicely, since this area is in a bit of a war zone; being immediately behind back wheel. Pattern should do other side flipped, as it's likely...

Got the inner part out intact, cleaning and will treat outer, and make a new inner to weld back in with fresh metal Time for the old cereal card to make a pattern 😀

Indeed lol Rear crossmember is great outside, has been replaced But been driven in salt, full of muck and never cleaned on the inside, so some rust jacking has occured and I need to work on the inside part to make it more happy Rust treated and etch primed ready to weld the bump stop bracket...

Thanks, Need to grind it down to tidy up and get the new bump stop mount on So it's time to wake up any late sleeping neighbours with my flappy disc on grinder 🙉