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The Nissens heater core part number I sent is for the Audi version that I use if I'm swapping the whole thing. It has no relation to the P38 at all other than the fact that it happens to fit in the heater box with a slight adjustment (trimming the center rib in the heater box - which takes a...

The green ones are O-rings for somewhere in the AC system - not the heater core.

Schrodinger's motorway lanes... In between 2 gantry's the lane is both possibly closed and not allowed to be driven in, and possibly re-opened and available to use...

Seen it plenty of times. The motor/clutch arrangement is fairly crude - it's not actually a solenoid, but rather an actual motor that spins and a spring loaded pin pops out to contact with a metal hasp on a plastic gear, which then spins and moves the locking mechanism. The buzzing, as far...

Just seen that I've been tagged in this... I unfortunately don't know how to set the GEMS ECU's to free running mode so they don't need a security code. There must be something in the EEPROM chips in the ECU that you would need to change to get it to run without a code, but as to where that's...

Thanks Brian :) funny you should say that aswell - I've sent about 4 refurbed ones out to people (not from this forum though) and I think I've had one of them back!

What's the issue you have? I have BECM diagnostics tools (though it looks like you're in the states, and I'm in the UK... though I've had units sent from Canada and as far away as NZ before!) if required, but it could be something external to the BECM which is causing the problem, or the BECM...

It sounds like you have one of the early latches - which have 2 connectors, and the wiring colours are the wires in the door harness I can't make sense of your wiring colours as they aren't written as the standard colour charts show - but on those specific latches the wiring should be: Black -...

Ah, No that isn't an admin error - it's probably a case of either I don't have one of those latches available (they are pretty rare these days as most that have been replaced were swapped for the second version and the wiring modified) or if I do have one, then it's still in bits awaiting to be...

The core charge is a deposit, which when your old door latch is returned to me, I refund that back to your Paypal account. Unfortunately my stock of door latches isn't massive anymore, as before I added the core charge, people were just not returning latches to me - which meant that I had to...

Sorry, just seen this now that Brian has tagged me... Entirely possible the door latch has failed. I think I actually have one available still which should fit a 1998 wiring wise. My website is here: p38webshop.co.uk and if you look under the door latches section, you'll see the various ones...

I'm still not sure it's a BECM issue - unless the battery has been connected with reverse polarity in the past... then it's anyone's guess. At the moment, my best guess is fusebox under the bonnet, or wiring/fuses somewhere....

Also worth checking you have 12V at all 3 power terminals on the side of the BECM (where the fuse box is). You should have battery voltage between the rear-most stud (the BECM ground point) and each of the other 3 studs (they have thick brown wires going to them). If you have battery voltage...

You can get individual switches to replace the moulded ones in 'later' latches (from about 1997 onwards they started being used). The issue is that the mounting pins on the moulded blocks of switches are ever so slightly different to the mounting holes on the individual switches, so to put...

The vehicle is in a state now where it needs the EKA entered to get it back to working as it should. Either that needs to be done via the drivers door, or if it's a later model (with BECM software V36 or above) then it can be done using diagnostics. The only reason I mention to double check...

The locks jumping up and down is a classic sign that the door latch microswitches are faulty/on the way out. If it's had a bit of a hissy fit, then you will now need to enter the EKA code to get it running again. Classic sign of needing the EKA is having the other doors all locked except the...

Sorry guys - just seen I've been tagged in this a couple of times! I'm away working at the moment (12-14 hour days onsite, plus travel etc etc etc) so not had much spare time at all to get onto forums/catch up on emails etc. I get home tomorrow for all of a day before I fly out silly early on...

Mine show 2.33V on 3 corners, and 2.27V on one corner (LH Rear - even though Nanocom shows it as LH Front in the live data view - the labels are wrong!) I had the ECU fault before with the LH rear sensor short to another sensor - though I did swap the sensor first with a cheaper aftermarket one...

£95 for the repair, and I'll include return postage for that. I've got it on my website - yours would come under the repair service rather than the exchange unit: http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=77 I'm away for work a lot at the moment (though I actually have an...

Yes, that would support the triggering of a relay. 3A contact rating at 24V - so will be similar at 12V, and a relay coil will most likely draw well under 100mA, so that would work fine. It's not waterproof though - it's designed to mounted inside a compartment (it's the same style as the EAS...