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Buy nothing till you have the pistons out to inspect bores top of block and cylinder head. Is there a lip in the bores with the piston down near the top?

Check the exhaust manifold is not blowing at the block. Is the fan belt in good condition?

Where you planning on getting your vacuum from , best going electric vacuum pump or belt driven one. Quite a few series 2 owners use remote servo's but not sure of the ratio.

Inspect the plugs in the block water ways especially the rear ones as its an engine out job to replace

File it out to fit thats what I did to the steel version I purchased. A guy I new was selling them in 6mm steel plate but came across the issue of different diameters , I persuaded him to sell me one trimmed it to suit and it has worked great. Had previously packed the gap in old one with shims...

Check this out https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254941601678?hash=item3b5bb41f8e:g:jCQAAOSwbs5f2IAT

Personally I would put oil in cylinders after the diesel before turning to lubricate the bores. Had a friend rebuilding his Series 1 a few years back engine was seized on piston found one piston solid in bore ke pt bahsining it with a block of wood now and then , one day he hit it and it moved...

If you know the wattage of the lamp you can connecti12V via a resistor to your lamp without the batteries fitted. Or you could supply it via a voltage regulator so that it only gets 6V. Are batteries you had in rechargeable cells?

Can you measure the thickness of the coil spring part and the size of the coil as the 1/2 synchro spring is significantly smaller than a selector detent spring. I have a series 3 suffix D box in pieces in stock will try and check sizes of each.

Normally when fitting a replacement engine it would be prudent to renew crank oil seals as its an engine out job if they fail afterwards and as seller says it is normal for seals to leak when run after a longtime standing. Can sometimes be rejuvenated with an addtive but worth renewing in my...

It must be nice having a good selection of parts available. If your not going to use the 2.25 petrol engine your mate has in his shed would he be willing to sell to me would like a project to possibly replace my 200DI in the future. Mind I am coming up to 70 so may never get around to fitting it...

That diff will be very expensive to refurb. Did you get a hold of a manual?

The only way it would get hot enough to be a problem would be if handbrake was binding.

I would be tempted to dress the ends then source a nylock nut to fit instead. Had a look in series 2 parts book to see if it identified the thread but afraid not.

What is the dish you talk of? Is the drive flange off?

Do a web search for Smithies landrover will bring up a NZ website of interest pdf manuals avaiable free also parts books.

Front brakes have you included the back plates that the cylinders and shoes mount on ?

Quite sure I have one pm me your address and I will find postage cost.

Your fronts should also be 11" TLS type with the 11" rears. https://pablanchard.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=576973 If fronts are smaller when ever you brake rear will cause back end to skid.

I had bought a second hand one stripped that down and rebuilt then had it shotblasted and galvanised. As bought