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Just been cleaning up and putting fresh gaskets in a low miles LT230. Where is the pitting? Pic would help. But if this is around the outside of the seal where it sits in housing should not matter as the rubber outer of seal will bed into the area. However a smear of RTV silicon is also fine...

Pretty sure it is the same one. NTC8287. For 12j, 19j, 200tdi.

First thing to check is thermostat, if your engine takes long time to warm up could be it is stuck open and engine over cools and heater will give only little warmth. Next a flush of heater matrix, old sludge may be restricting flow. Another issue can be that even if heater gets hot the seals...

When the td5 Defender first came out with new owners moving on from older tdi models they found the td5 rather poor when starting off towing but plenty of go once moving. Stalling at junctions was often a complaint. Td5 just did not pull low down like the tdi's. Drivers would need to give...

If Chassis, engine is TD5 then likely the rest of the running gear is as well. Where is the reverse gear found, up to the left [ 87model ] or down to right ?

Strewth!

Start with the cheap basic stuff. Fluid level, play in column UJ's, play in any of the rod ends, play in steering box itself. This can be adjusted but must be done the correct way.

And does clutch work now?

It would have made sense for LR to uprate the oil flow in the 12j unit as it was soon to be the 19j turbo where cooling would be an issue. [ LR have a history of doing upgrades a bit at a time] Having the two pumps and running them on a bench for a set time is the only way I can think to know...

Good idea to keep the old chassis number if you can find it, but best just to keep it. Cold galv is good when there is no other choice but does not compare to the hot dip version. Daft to damage your new chassis by welding it.

Not 100% on this one but if memory serves this was an issue with early Defender td5's and according to a mate who had one a real pain when towing. One just had to learn to keep the revs up some he said.

There is a load of rubbish talked about the land rover hand brake, Yes being a transmission unit there will still be some movement at the wheels, yes you should not yank it on while on the move but that is the same for most hand brakes. When you stop on a hill your foot brake should be on...

Any play in a UJ and it is time to change, it wont be long before it realy rattles and one that lets go at speed will make heck of a mess.

To see how much play in center diff and remove front shaft at gearbox end [chock vehicle] With hand brake on rotate flange by hand back and fore and see how much it turns. Now engage diff lock and see how much difference in rotation amount.

A re engine of older model then ?

Last spring my Ninety had symptoms of engine shaking on start up. It was still running fine just a bit of extra vibration, however on startup the engine could be seen shaking quite a lot. Being a 200tdi no electronic stuff to check Although no mounts were broken a new set sorted the problem...

Straighten up the pin, leave the catch unit bolts a tad loose for first try.

I fitted SAT's on my 2a petrol years ago when I got into RTV 4x4 trials. On the way to an event going around a sweeping bend where I never had any issues before found myself in a 4 wheel drift :eek: Good job no one coming the other way! They were the best off road at the time, more so when half...

So you wait a bit and then it goes again? if so likely an ecu issue, common enough.

ENV diffs were fitted to Series 2b forward control model's when it was found rover ones not up to the job Pretty much in the hen's teeth category today I recon.