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I tried the other day on a LT 230 I am fitting with new seals and gaskets to remove the drive. Just can not get the speedo drive out so as there is no sign it was leaking decided to leave alone. Recon one of the O rings in the gasket set is what seals it and the whole thing is kept in place by...

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What you experienced was a stuck clutch plate. Corrosion results in clutch drive plate sticking to the engine flywheel. Some times starting in gear with your foot on the pedal makes it let go. Other times one has to drive it with foot still on clutch to load the plate and make it let go being...

As above get a gasket set and while there you can check the float and its level. Petrol needs a flame or spark to ignite, drops on a hot manifold just evaporate.

Well I found them there.

Should have said earth to battery, engine earth may be rubbish. Mine came off recently [ broke when I jacked engine to renew mount rubber's ] and I did not notice:eek: Made all sorts of funny things happen, temp gauge lost the plot, LED voltage reader went like something at a fairground and...

Try your volt meter on the large terminal of alternator engine running, should be reading 14. something v.

Welcome to Landyzone and good news you are in the right section. Couple of questions. How long have you had this issue and was it ok before? Does the dash battery/ignition light go out when running? Any other issues like poor lighting and or flickering of.

Symptoms you have are of failed seals in master, it will be worth doing slave as well because bits of master seals will have found their way down the system. Scotts classic car Spares have a range of seal repair kits, find on the flebay. A bit of heat can help free the Allen, just some boiling...

Fluid level good? Clear [ish] or black and murky in reservoir?

Re with @stave2286w above, It is the angle in the bracket [ pic 3] that prevents seat back from folding back when seat moved forward.

If you remove the solenoid plunger the engine should just keep running and you will have to stall it to stop. Should your engine now keep ticking over then test again with plunger back in, still quits then either the solenoid is a bit dicky or its power supply is dicky. As said in post above...

That chap in video is trying to sort out a fuel leek with his filter housing. You likely have air getting into the system and @miktdish explains the result in post above. Air could be getting in at the filter itself or any connection right up to the engine. The clear section of fuel pipe on...

With the end cap off the flange you will see if there is play there. Is the Ashcroft LSD not just the center that has to be fitted into your diff?

Air in system. I am not a Td5 driver but on my Tdi I have a section of clear pipe to check for bubbles where fuel arrives in engine bay installed when I had issues with fuel being drawn in the line from tank. However as Td5 has in tank pump if it is air it will be getting in at any point [...

From what I hear the engine is turning fast enough to start with just one batt. It may be you have air leaking back into system and two batt just speeds up pump some to get rid of it.

But was this shortly after having done the first test?

What if you do it the other way around, two batts first?

So you have clearance below the spring/axle? If so get a bar something like a tire lever and wedge between upper coils and beat the crap out of it.

Looks like an oversize spring has been forced in. Is yours short or long wheelbase?