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Very likely, I would renew both. It may look un damaged but will have been loaded on the edge much like the gear teeth have and while the teeth are big enough to take some abuse it would be daft not to replace both bearings while in there.

Nice zoom feature on laptop.:)

Not many made, some series based in late 70's early 80's The idea was to have a truck to which a back hoe could be quickly attached. The rise of mini 360 diggers put an end to this. Later some coil spring conversions were made with portal axles and 3 point linkage were made, again not many a...

You can see in the red circle the two high gears are not correctly meshed. As you have noted the axis of the intermediate gear and output gear do not align. Looks like most of the drive load has been going through just the edge of the teeth. On checking there are no broken teeth on either...

Talking to the parts seller on the phone is often good to ensure you order the right ones. @steve2286w if you look at the pic top of page one can see the high ratio output gear at the bottom is no longer in line with the intermediate gear in the middle. Likely cause fail of front bearing.

Gear oil is designed to withstand the high pressures one gets between gear teeth, there are some liquid grease's that are the same but do not know if the "one shot" stuff is the same. If in diff I would drain.

I doubt very much the main gearbox is the original from 1969, the casing may well be but likely it will have had a rebuild or two in that time. Drain and check its oil and if good, works in all gears?[ no metal bits come out] New oil and away to go. The transfer box goes on well, running with...

Just to get this right when you are talking to people the box you are looking at is the " transfer box" and it is a separate part to the main gear box it is bolted to and can be removed to be worked on or changed leaving main box in place

When you have been for a drive, check hand brake drum. It can get pretty hot if dragging. A hand held IR reader is useful tool, point at UJ's too as one that is seizing can also get warmer than others.

It is annoying when posters never come back. Anyway common causes of such noises are as my above post re handbrake, UJ that is seizing or started to come apart, wheel bearing on its way out.

That's what I said. :D

Last couple of day's been sorting swivel housing big seal. Did NS last month for MOT no issues, however on OS other issues came to view. Brake flexi ferrule very corroded [ tester missed that] spring pan starting to collapse, patch of rot at top of turret. As it's off caliper will have overhaul...

If it is an odd one and will not come apart with ease I suggest you bite the bullet and look up John Craddock as the have a good range of series parts

John Craddock is a good supplier of Series parts. Your truck is a later 2a the good news being the transfer box remained much the same to the end of series 3 production.

Folding rear are just that, after market items that can be fitted later.

Is there a thick metal cable coming from the "bean" can? Could be the wiper motor as that is what is in that position on rhd models.

Given your obvious lack of knowledge as to what a series 3 is, I recon you need to see and if you can drive one and then decide if it is for you. The series 3 is a basic pretty tough vehicle with simple mechanics and electrics when compared to todays vehicles and has little in the way of...

Another thing to check is that reverse selector is not being jammed from going in all the way by a stone or something.

Chances are the reverse idler gear teeth have worn away.

Worth checking fuse it is on but switch would be the next thing.