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Engine block to chassis is the usual secondary connection. Batts of any age can go faulty by internal shorts.

I have just been rebuilding an Lt 230, it had sat a long time but not done many miles so mostly clean up, seals and gaskets and new cross drilled input gear. I removed front housing to have a good look into the center diff. Which way to get out just depends on how tight the bearing is in the...

It does come out the front, problem is it is tight in there. Manual mentions whacking it out with a mallet.

A likely issue is the bearing that supports the back end of the lay shaft has failed allowing it to drop so that gear teeth at that end can not engage, clicking is likely teeth just touching. Bad luck there and it will be a box out job.

What year?

Helo Tgs, Is there any noise beyond the usual whirring when you let out the clutch in those gears? Was it like that when you bought it?

To remove the bearing the front housing has to come off unless you are lucky enough to get a grip on the inner race having removed circlip be able to pull it out. The shaft can not be removed from the front. Disconnect high/low lever, and diff lock lever. The 6 bolts holding high/low cross...

Front output UJ thrown some of it's roller pins out.

That is the engine oil cooler, part of main radiator.

Neither my local parts chap or JGS seem able to find the right hose. The original 19j calipers were replaced with the larger ones from an early 200tdi Defender I broke up for the engine some fifteen years ago. [ rotted out launching boats it was] Mine is late 19j and VIN pre dates the number...

Did not know this either, but have known some rig up this lamp to a low coolant warning sender.

I have a 1990 Ninety [ was 19j but now 200tdi.] Had this truck over thirty years, hard worked but looked after. I was swapping out swivel housing big seal the other day and noticed the ferrule on the flexi was pretty much corroded clean through to the point of being able to bend it a bit by...

He was on the same job with YRM parts, one conclusion he came to was you do need those second row doors to have a chance of getting things right and while the YRM items are one piece there is some give at the free ends.

One of the worst things about UJ's is sometimes you can pump grease as much as you like until it is dribbling over the joint but there may be one journal that just will not take any, the grease takes the path of least resistance to the other three. That journal then goes dry and starts to seize...

If you check out Defender 300 "behind dash earth" on you tube a fair bit of info comes up about it and other earth positions. Torque settings on starter bolts not critical but can be found in manual, book or on line. I just tighten with a normal socket wrench. The voltage drop and rise again...

Have you checked the panhard rod bushes, get someone to waggle steering wheel while you look at it from the front.

Looking good there, got the roof to fit as well. According to a friend who has had two station wagons doing/getting right the B and C pillars is the piggy most job on a Landy.

Tweeting like a Canary bird and then the click as you move off is a sign that seized UJ is starting to give up.

Universal joint on the drive shaft. Check for wear in the UJ's and its splines.

A 1991 Defender 90 will have the so called larger 110 calipers as standard, only the 19J Ninety and models before had the smaller caliper. Both are 4 pot and it is just a nut and bolt job to swap to the larger caliper.