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Those blue "scotch block" connectors are awful things, little contact area that soon corrodes.

I had not before done a rotary type pump but had fixed Simms piston type. Video's on the you tube. Bundy Bear out in Aus does a good one, for tractor but it is the same pump.

When I had mine off I had the full kit [ the large O ring on body needed doing] I used their non genuine. When removing top cover it is important to note which hole the little spring inside hooks to so goes back the same.

The £13 kit above is to sort the throttle shaft, nothing to do with the input shaft.

Air getting into fuel system another possible issue, once clear all runs fine again.

It is a type of nut known as a "stake nut" It is done up to a set torque and then the edge of the nut is "staked" bent into the groove on the shaft to prevent it undoing. FRC 7453 Why do you ask?

Over time engine and gearbox rubber mounts can go soft [move more] result more vibration, most notable when starting cold, running slow. New mounts sorted mine last spring.

It is said that for best ride, road holding overall performance the unsprung weight should be kept to a minimum. Still it's a Land Rover, we just want them to have beef🐂

Is it just for the look that folk want the Wolf wheels? Standard Land Rover rims are plenty strong. Gawd knows I have done my best to wreak them but only a couple have given in to Welsh coast rocks in Fifty years. :D

Do a compression test if you fine one or more of the cylinders is affected by Lynall's test above.

That likely is the case today and with the internet finding them is a simpler job.

Some years ago Daihatsu engine was a popular switch. There were plenty to be had as some of those Daihatsu's fitted with them you could, on a quiet day hear them rust. Well liked unit as you described, down side was when time came parts were needed they were horrible expensive.

I have a neat replacement center panel from MUD UK, has an uprated power socket, Switch for interior light independent of the dash/interior light switch that passenger can use as well, Rear work light, the usual rear wipe/wash and a spare blank.

Black under load normal. Do check the harness at the plug under the seat next to battery for oil contamination.

White smoke is unburnt fuel, it would be worth checking the injectors. Put it on a reader. It sounds like an intermittent problem. Check injector loom for oil ingress, known Td5 issue. Diesel bug produces a black sludge in tank, filter, fuel lines. Result is poor performance or not going at all.

Have you looked to see if any odd puffs coming from exhaust?

Some one I knew who did a lot of log work with his Series landy had two alternators and battery's. Separate systems. Was a 2a diesel that when new had two 6v bats in series, one in engine bay and one under passenger seat. He had a 12v in each position. The one in the engine bay did the usual...

Why do you want a 100 amp alternator? 70amp type can be had for much less. Any way have a look at " Mid Ulster Rotating Electrics" Lots of info and stuff. Have used them a number of times for alternator/starter repair parts.

Large wire like the one at your dash is usual a permanent live, could have been to a to a glow plug ignition switch [ bulkhead from a diesel model?] Recon I see a choke in your pic so petrol?

Glad you got it, keeps bar away from terminals too.