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Sound like it needs the EDC license. FYI nanocom needs license per engine type, but all other ECU work with the existing license. This one: https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/product/ncom18 But best to register the Nanocom on BBS website & check what it should have. Did you buy it...

Now you just need the kit to refurb the leaky pump.

The delay is probably the delays in the BECM receiving & processing the data. Although the two outstations are on separate data busses, the BECM code can only do one thing at a time !!

New arrival, or broken down ?

Is this an FL1 or FL2 ? @Zorro587 you other posts suggest an FL2 ? Never worked on an FL2 but various posts suggest unlike the FL1, the bearings come fitted to the prop on the FL2 ?

Here's the sleep test procedure from BECM system Info doc. It's a bit blurry, but that's the best copy I have.

Well done . . . . . I simply bought one on Amazon for << £20

Def try the Nanocom then. Plug it in, but leave ignition off. Then navigate menus to P38 / EDC / Right Arrow Twice / BECM / Inputs / Door-Locking / 1st screen shows front door ajar switches. 2nd screen shows rear doors, key switch & CDL (Central Door Locking). 3rd screen shows bonnet &...

If you have a Nanocom, you can use the BECM Inputs menu to show the microswitches. That will prove the latch to outstation , as well as the outstation to BECM. Then if something isn't working, take the doorcard off & do the continuity checks. The door switches should show 12V normally...

Probably time to do the latch microswitch testing. Do each test a couple of times, in case the microswitch actuation is intermittent.

My wife did similar a few years ago. She only realised after about £20 of petrol. While she was still at the garage, I got her to fill to brim with the more expensive diesel, and again when it was down to half tank. Engine has been fine ever since.

I suspect you get a lot more sun than me ?

or you can simply replace the UJ's for a lot less ?

The panel I bought was supposedly 20W but I'm wondering. Def 18-20V out of the panel & 14V from regulator, but did it charge the battery . . . No. It's sitting in the garage at the moment, but when I get a chance will try it again off the car.

Value depends a lot on condition. In UK roadworthy examples are anywhere from £10k-£15 upwards. In good condition £30 upwards. Body & chassis probably decide whether the rest is worth doing. Timing is a DIY job in my opinion. Is an EFI, or old carb version ? There's loads of LT95...

Got them on both my P38's.

Much too far for me !!

yes. Just go to BECM Utility, enter the eKA an press Disarm. Do NOT use Odometer sync unless replacing cluster with one with lower mileage..

and how to check the first three above has been posted a zillion times on this forum !!

Is the relay engaging ? Is the pressure switch open or closed ? Could be the thermal switch inside the compressor. Diagnostics ?