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RAVE is a good start.

An extra £60k for all the plastic trim is a bit steep, considering all the other 2012 RR are around £10,000.

That's definitely the case on Wabco-C, but Nanocom Wabco-D (1999 onwards) might be different ? The later guide does not mention it, but the earlier guide does ?

Just the o-ring. Make sure get decent black nitrile & not the crap red or orange. Do all three NRV.

Progress today. . . . . old core plug out & new one installed. It can be done with engine in car, but needs jacking up as far as possible. Biggest challenge is tapping the new one in. In case anyone needs to know it's a 24mm plug. Pics 1 & 2 = The leaky holes front & back of core plug...

Mine often rises a bit overnight when weather is warm. Usually at the back. Valve tips do weep. In winter it drops a bit.

Are you gonna post a picture of the snapped crank ???

Soapy water first. Check the tee fitting & schrader valve (with the cap off). Then get under the car & check the tank fitting, plus cover the tank in soapy water for any pin-holes. The tank pipe (usually) runs along the left chassis rail & then over the rear cross-member & forwards to...

Buy the holding tool. They are less than £20 on eBay

Bottom line . . if the 24mm bolt is not tight it will never move the tensioner spring. I'm fairly sure it's a normal CW thread. You need to tighten the 24mm first, and then tighten up the locknut behind, as per the picture posted by Arctic2. The assembly looks like the attached pic (from...

The tensioner bolt does tend to loosen on the TD4 because of the direction you need to move it with the 24mm spanner. So as said above tighten the nut shown in the photo above (and below)

Will let you all know hopefully Thursday. L & R engine mounts are off at moment, so I can jack the engine up as far as possible. Otherwise it’s gonna be head off . . . . . . . Either the TD4 or mine depending on wifey. [Update] So this morning I jacked up the engine as far as it would go...

When I was doing my engine install after the rebuild, I found it easier to use a tee on each pair of lines & use a single Schrader valve for front and another for rear. That way both sides inflated together with equal pressure. Never checked how level it was because wasn’t driving it at the...

Just found a decent picture of the TD4 head. Looks like the core plug is in the end of the head. Where the timing chain runs is not like the usual cover casting :-( Now wondering if I can drill a hole, & lever it out. Then I should be able to clean up the edges & tap a new one in like on...

It was all rusty crud over the holes before I cleaned the core plug. Before I drained it, the coolant was coming out quite quickly. There was also brown coolant all over the outside of the stat & pump housing. Both gaskets were quite flat, but had no obvious leak points. Is there...

Found the cause of coolant leak on Wife's FL1 TD4. Wasn't the thermostat housing or water pump. There's two holes in a small core plug in what I think is the upper camchain cover ? Does this end cover come off (reasonable easily I hope), with the engine in the car ? Pete

Yes valve should be in the 6mm tank line (port-6 on diagram below), but after fitting & pressurising do the soapy water tests on the tee & valve with cap off. FYI, the lower 8mm line (port-7) is the pump feed to the dryer when filling. Dry air then returns via Port-5, through the NRV1 and out...

Had to dig out my a-frame & rescue daughter's Corsa. Looked like HG failure, but when I eventually got it apart the gasket looked ok, although the head does appear to have about 10thou warp. But my steel rule is not a proper engineers rule. Dropped the head off at Classic & Moder Enginbes...

Yep, been there. Will do cold pressure check first & have torch & mirror handy. I have all the torx bits & ratchet spanner versions.

It's pot luck. We've had expensive one fail, and cheap brands that last . . . . . Main problem I've found with the cheaper brands, is badly made hex on the end of the thread to hold the spindle when fitting them.