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New tee installed, plus replaced the leaking core plug. All good & running again.

I also used balancing transformers. IMHO this is the best method, because you avoid any hum & buzz issues. There's a thread on here somewhere about it !! . . . . . .search box is above.

@P38Seb if you can look for the version with extra sleeves - it makes the job easier.

Best to either disconnect battery, or pull the SRS fuses (both of them). Then if you have the screws undone & unplugged it, it should simply lift out towards you.

Hold one end in bench vice. Grab the other end with large grips & a lever. See if it moves or is siezed. This are threads on this somewhere if you search !!

1) For the pressure relief valve, use Loktite 577. (I have used it on loads of NPT & BSF pipe fitting with zero leaks.) The relief valve is only under pressue when the pump is on, so if it's leaking it will increase the tank fill time, but not cause tank leaks. Once the pump stops, NRV-1...

Replacement metal coolant tee arrived today :) :) Exactly the same size as the "unobtainable" LR part, but much better quality.

Rave will only mention complete latch. Motor replacement is forum search.

Plenty on eBay for around £25-£50.

One of these days I must sort my spare HEVAC output driver & motor potentiometers !! Then I will do a bench test with Nanocom to see if it drives & tests the correct servos !! 16-pin connector is for my daily driver !!

Use a proper M47 timing kit and insert the crank holding pin. First page in TD4 Repairs section in the "RAVE with TSB's" version I just shared.

I suspect the Nanocom glitch is still there in latest release. I was checking blend motors recently, but ended up using 9V battery & multimeter before finding the connector that plugs into the HEVAC was intermittent. Replacement connector still sitting on my desk !!

Assuming the motors are not actually short circuit, simple measure the output voltage from the HEVAC when it's trying to move them. If there's no voltage, the output chips are probably blown (most likely due to shorted motors in the past !! ) I have one in the garage waiting for me to replace...

Depends who has P38 after March 2001. Luckily both my 1998 fall in the preveious category !!

Firstly do not rely on Nanocom for Voltages, because the ECU's tend to give different values some of which are wrong. Check using a voltmeter you have 12V on C244 pins 1, 2 & 3. Also check ground on Pin-4. Testing the servos needs to be done unplugged from the HEVAC. For each one, connect...

No. Test the motors using a 9v battery. Ideally at same time check the feedback potentiometers using multimeter.

Maybe this one ??

Do you know the hose connections on yours ? If not I will measure mine later this week. Just measured, and they are about 32mm for the large hoses. Will do a search while I'm hunting for ours !!

LR Parts responded with "that part is not available separately, only complete hose set - but that is no longer available !! ". Might have found an alternative for the MGTF. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PER000150, or better still a metal version from here Mike Satur ? <<<-- this is the one...

It's SALLNAAE15A496xxx. The diagram I posted is "from 3A000001" acording to Allbrit parts so should be correct. The DLS site say "up to 2A999999" for both versions !! Will see if I get a response from JLR Classic Parts, and also check at local dealers. Will take the diagram & photo with me...