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Did they do it properly with Tapley Meter as recommended by LR ? That's how my local MOT guy does it.

Check all the solenoid resistances & the wiring to the ECU ? Also are you doing the correct fluid fill procedure ? Lots of info in this thread, although the OP never came back with the final result.

Does the vacuum drop immediatly after switching off the engine ? And how long does it take to build up after starting ? If it's slow to build vacuum and eventually holds at 24, maybe the pump is weak, and cannot keep up with braking ?

Thor coolant hoses should be like this:

You cannot clear "EKA Lockout" with keys or Nanocom. Lockout is the delay befor you can enter the EKA - Usually 30mins. Key method should work on any P38 after EKA Lockout has gone, and the dash shows "Engine disabled, Enter EKA". Nanocom method apparently only works on BECM V36 or...

+1 on check for leaks. Also check if the solenoid for that corner is actually triggering in the valve block. With your Nanocom connected & ignition on with engine off, you should hear the solenoids click when you activate them. If one is not operating the bag will not inflate !! Most...

There's threads for exactly that, which use a simply jog remote to enable the P38 receiver to receive the FOB code, and then block the receiver when you're not using the FOB.. This stops it from getting rogue RF signals that wake the BECM & flatten the battery. Search for Jog Remote or similar !!

Was talking to Les at CRNW last week, and he said some customer have ordered FoB's from LR but got nowhere. don't know if it's true, but LR happily took their money but HOF no longer supply. Problem is LR cannot refund as HOF have not accepted or cancelled the order. Customer stuck in limbo...

If you have the original FoB but it broken, there are places that refurbish them. Try Les first. https://lesedwards.co.uk/contact/ If you really want the pain of a 3rd party system, there was someone on rangerovers.net that did it.

Nope, that part of the casing seems to be one piece. The only split is in the centre of the two main halves - see the clip in this picture.

I was on the same "cheaper to pay" option for a while, especially as for my once a week trip, the cost was shared with my mate. But recently Wife's FL1 blew a core plug, and daughters Corse failed head gasket on same weekend !! So bought a cheap run-around which we still got. . . . .a little...

No not the self-tapping screw mod. That's to spread the front section slightly, and helps free up the footwell flaps. In my case, it's the top flaps that control the screen & vent airflow. I removed the rod linking the two flaps together, and the gear that engages with the motor gear...

Yes I know bad title…… Anyway was sorting my spare heater box distribution stiffness today, and figured out it was just the top two that do the dash vents & screen. After removing only that gear the distribution gears moved freely again. Problem is even after taking the box apart & removing...

He said “power steering pump” ……. Not the steering shaft !!

Agreed, for £12.50 might as well have the biggest baddest engine available !!

and on most Linux or BSD systems (and Juniper, Cisco, etc.), just use tab completion . . . . . .MS haven't caught up yet !!

Found the original Wiper Timer article in case anyone is interested. Not that we need it these days !!

slight correction to what I said above. The manifolds stay attached to the head, so you disconnect the downpipes, and lift the heads off complete with manifolds !! Then unbolting them is easy.

Agreed, I had a timer version first !! The other was a project in an electronics mag, so I thought why not. No wife or kids back then, so life was simpler & only one car to fix !!

When I was doing my project P38, I modified the exhaust manifolds a bit. Just a small cut-away on the flange that bolts to the heads. Now the head bolts clear the manifold, so next time the heads need to come off, the manifolds simply stay attached !!