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Yes. A known issue is the driver chips failing (I have one on the bench waiting for me to change the chip !). Regarding the Inputs screen. The buttons should all show GND, but change to 12V when you press the button. That's how you test the inputs !! (Note: other ECU inputs vary, where...

Yes I know about that issue. Definitely dry joint in my case. I put 12V feed on the inputs. Then wriggled the wires and could hear the relevant solenoids clicking. Must have taken all day to remove that much compound & get the PCB out ?

Could be, but the challenge is finding a good one. I have a couple in the garage that definitely have dry joints on 1 or 2 of the the input wires underneath the compound. The one in the car passed my bench test of operating the solenoids whilst wriggling the wires.

with ignition on & engine not running, clear the faults with Nanocom. Then exit back to main menu, and go back in to read faults again. If there's anything there, they will need sorting first. Next exit EAS menus & cycle the ignition off & start the car. If it does adjust heights, but...

That's why I use the lighter feed !!

If the dash shows "keycode lockout", wait until that times out before trying anything. If the window is open, it's easy to try the key in ignition method after reconnecting the battery !! Once you get your Nanocom try the EKA first. Then in the BECM Inputs menu, you can check the door...

I generally use the cigarette lighter feed. That way accessories go off with the ignition.

Never reconnect the battery with all doors closed or locked. You might need to put up with the alarm for a short bit, while you get the windows open. Then close the door & do the EKA. Don't keep disconnecting the battery. Which version of the EKA are you using? RHD & LHD are different !!

Firstly, you must wait for the "EKA Lockout" message to disappear. Dash should then show "Engine disabled - Enter EKA". Make sure you open the front windows just in case. Any indications after the initial 4 turns, and during the code entry will depend on the BECM settings. There's...

Doesn't seem to matter what the temp is. It's definitely reduced occurences after my sensor arm fix. Planning to do a Nanocom recording on next trip over a few miles & see what the sensor variations look like.

Might help to find the product & model code on the remote box. Then search for the supplier's install guide & reverse the process. After that, check & fix the door latches, and get the FOB working.

Yes Nanocom should work assuming you have the correct EKA code. If the key method is not working, you probably have something wrong with the door latch (or wrong EKA).

On the way to the pub last night, my P38 did the old "jump to wade height" (just once), but caught it in time & pressed down on the height switch :). It has certainly done it less since I sorted the left rear height sensor looseness. Definitely cannot be tracking between the white connector...

Diagnostics might help. This should be the correct Nanocom guide for Thor.

Don't really understand your results ?? ".intermediate speed sensor pins 21-20 1 ohms ●Open circuit?●". does this mean 1ohm or open circuit ? ".2/4 brake duty solenoid pins 3-17 flashes 1500ohms upwards ?" Does this mean you get 1500ohms, or various readings ?

They are the defaults in the Nanocom emulator !! As the Nanocom guide says, peeps should take a note of all settings, plus as you said never change anything you don't understand. They are really intended for programming a replacement ECU to match the old one.

Did some Bosch reading. Pump should run for a short while when ignition is turned on, but stops when ECU detects sufficient fuel pressure. Pump is then re-engaged when turning the engine over, and should remain running when engine starts. So as others have said check relay is working. You...

Give the gearbox connector contacts a thorough clean & then remove & re-insert the connectors a couple of times. I find it hard to believe all the solenoids are way out ? Usually only one at a time fails ?

Does sound like fuel relay or pump. Not sure if Thor has a fuel pressure test valve like GEMS, but if it does check the pressure.

In case it helps here's the Nanocom EDC guide. All the guides are downloadable from the BBS website.