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Perhaps he's going to claim he's a showman & tow more than one trailer at a time.

If it requires dealer level diagnostics to clear it & there are no independent Land Rover specialists in your area you may unfortunately have no choice.

Never heard of one & neither has the workshop foreman/manager of the caravan place I do bodywork for so it looks like you'll have to make one.

Difficult to be certain without pressurising the system & seeing where water escapes which is likely to prove difficult now it's in bits. That said I'd be more surprised if it isn't leaking between the hose & that part of the pipe that the hose fits over & I don't think the metal pipe is...

That pipe's not looking good.😲 Think it's No6 in this link. https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1230/73417/74385/5985/74837 ERC2126 although what your chances of getting one are I wouldn't like to guess at.

STC1856? https://simonbbc.com/search.php?search_query=stc1856&section=product

^^^^Good guide. It's the foam backing on the material that's the issue. Deteriorates over time with heat & just ends up as a crumbly mess even though the material is still fine. It all needs to be scraped off the backing board & if you're trying to refix the old covering it all needs to be...

The rubber seals at each end of the valley gasket harden over time & are a source of oil leaks esp at the rear. You may need to change to the later valley gasket clamps & seals if you use the composite gasket. I did. Clean the faces of the heads & inlet manifold. Thinners & a rag work well -...

IIRC the ignition amp that bolts to the side of the dizzy is known for problems as it heats up - LR came out with a kit to remote mount it on the wing. The older ignition amp is mounted on the inner wing under the coil. Which type have you got? ETA Read post by 'Bullbar Cowboy'...

Take the heads off & have a look to see what the issue is.

If you haven't already got it get the factory workshop manual. It's a big thick book for these. Includes both 2.4 and 2.5 VM. Not cheap but has saved me a fortune over the years I've had my V8 'Range Rover. All petrol & diesel models from 1986 to 1989'. SRR660ENWM.

What sort of money was he charging for the overhaul?

Standard set of leads (from DLS IIRC when I did the cam & followers etc a few years back). NGK plugs. Rotor arm from simonbbc. The one with the metal strip moulded in NOT the ones that have the strip riveted on. Lucas cap - at least that's what it says on the box! Has the lead pickups well...

If the area the seal runs on is pitted or worn then new seals won't last long. Consider using a speedisleeve to restore the area on the half shaft. Very clever little gizmos & I've used a few. www.skf.com/uk/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

Buy one from a breakers & cannibalise it for what you want?

As norseman says for the model year the engine & both gearboxes are wrong so it sounds like it's had a lot done to it - assuming you've correctly identified the units. The LT230 transfer uses HP oil. The BW box uses ATF. Ashcroft's recommend: "What oil should I use in my Borg Warner transfer...

Easily done when removing/replacing the console & often easy to overlook the obvious.:) ETA kermit said it should show on the dash. I don't know if that's the case as mine's a Classic & doesn't have lights to show what gear you're in in either main or transfer.

Yes. That's fine.

Yes, but you will need to partially strip the dizzy as the springs & weights are in the bowl shaped bottom of the dizzy under the plate. Be an idea to find the relevant section in the manual or online.

Transfer box in 'N'?