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To do the valves you need to take the cylinder heads off. The rocker covers need to come off. The inlet manifold has to come off. That means draining the coolant, taking all the hoses, cables & linkages off. The exhaust manifolds really need to come off if only to reduce weight & make it easier...

You'll need to take the top end apart & if you're going that far then you might as well take the front cover off while you're at it & you can then check that the timing chain & its sprockets are right or not. I think that does need to be done if only to rule it out. If it was running fine with...

How long ago was the rebuild done & what warranty were you given?

As this is the 'Engines' subforum that is for issues with engines you might get more replies if you put it in the 'Land Rover Discovery' subforum.

Change it if you wish but keep the old one as a spare. Be aware that most of the bolts don't need excessive tightening & if you overtighten the really long ones you run a risk of either stripping the thread or shearing the bolt. Those long ones have an unfortunate tendency to shear when being...

Air leaks on the intake of these can cause problems - in particular when the air is able to enter the engine after the Air Flow Meter so is unmetered. Check all hoses for security & any splits. If the plenum chamber and ram housing have been fitted without sealant this can also allow air leaks...

Undoes clockwise for V belt V8 and anti-clockwise for serpentine belt V8. Usually needs a good whack on the spanner to shock it loose.

Don't worry too much about preload unless you're using something unusual.

If it's tapping it's time to replace. That one if refitted is rapidly going to get worse & you'd be taking it all to bits again. An idea of tappet wear: http://www.v8engines.com/faq-gen.htm#worntappets

The camshaft needs replacing. Normal to replace camshaft and the followers at the same time, any damage or wear will rapidly affect new items if you don't. If the compression is fine I wouldn't worry about the bore - although if you've got it in bits then no reason (and might give you peace of...

www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/fact-alternators-are-not-designed-to-charge-dead-batteries Ignore the advertising of their own batteries. Your neighbour's battery needs fully charging with a battery charger & then see what happens, but likely it's knackered. 20 miles will achieve...

Weak mixture flashback? Unmetered air entering the system after the airflow meter?

Is it actually misfiring or do the revs just dip then pick up again? Check the wiring connection of the harness at the AFM. The flapper doesn't have the stepper motor idle valve of the later ones.

I think more likely 'the number of the beast'. Revelations 13 verse 18: Here is wisdom. Let him that hath understanding count the number of the beast: for it is the number of a man; and his number is Six hundred threescore and six. Bit more: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revelation_13

LRcat ( https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1233/64319/64443/5280/64552 ) comes up with these part numbers: PCH118133 for the one with the airblast PCH118134 for the one without the airblast. Pics of the two: www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pch118133-genuine-top-hose-radiator.html...

Removal section in my factory manual starts with a warning in bold type that the unit is pressurised, must not be dismantled and repair is by replacement of the complete unit. Issue with twin axle stuff is that they're heavy & like to sit level & unlike the smaller single axles you can't really...

Uses fluid and gas & is under high pressure. Someone did try with the Defender one in conjunction with a citroen suspension specialist but it didn't work out: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/77667-self-leveling-unit-repair/#comments Might be of interest...

My thoughts too. If the Boge self levelling unit has failed then the rear won't self level. Don't forget the car needs to be driven for the Boge to pump up. They're no longer available although Kingsley list remanufactured units, but at 2k +VAT you're probably better fitting Disco 1 rear...

The head bolts - or the stud washers & nuts if you've fitted a stud kit - effectively seal against the head so oil can't pass up or down them. There are oil passageways from the block up through the heads & rocker shaft pedestal into the rocker shafts which are hollow. Then out of the rocker...

I very much doubt it's the gauge & light. Check the connector plugs on the wires near the tank. May be corrosion issues in the connectors or penetration & corrosion in the wires themselves. Had that with the fuel pump live feed on my petrol '86 3.5EFi - down to a couple of strands inside the...