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Take it you're using standard bulbs, not LEDs? These might help:

I had something very similar with my own - 1986 3.5EFi - which turned out to be the live feed wire. Old pump had failed - lots of noise before it died. Fitted the new & nothing. Bit of head scratching & out with the digital multimeter. Almost battery voltage showing at the connector in the...

Ah, my mistake. I assumed the OP might have a modicum of sense. But in this day & age that's perhaps not the best assumption :)

Connect the new one to a battery & see what happens.

This might help: www.v8developments.co.uk/preload.htm

IF - and it's a big IF - the battery is fully charged and in good condition try connecting a jump lead directly from the battery earth terminal to a good clean metal point on the block & see what happens. This would help to rule out a faulty earth.

The link I gave you says the lifters should be empty. They are hydraulic & the engine running (which drives the oil pump) will fill them with oil under pressure. If the oil is not under pressure then you will have no resistance when you press them as you are emptying any oil that's in them out...

In the absence of a manual for your system you'll be best tracing all the wires from the alarm & seeing where they go. It's common for many aftermarket systems for at least two of the car's systems to be interrupted by cutting a vehicle wire & splicing the appropriate pair of wires from the...

Sure it's a 720? Googling suggests that's specific to Minis produced from 1976 onwards. How long have you had the car & has it always had this bleep & non-start problem? Have you removed one of the plugs & turned the engine over to see if there is a spark?

Don't they also require a specific quantity of lubricant? Not sure how you achieve that without an empty & refill of the system with a weighed quantity of oil to avoid lack of lubricant leading to damaging the pump.

As it's only under 'moderate to heavy' acceleration or under heavy load another issue could be ignition timing - too advanced - & that's what you're hearing. Be interested to know the result.

You can't ignore the 'ticking & needle bounce' You will have the same setup as my '86 EFi. Suggests an issue with one or both of the cables, the drive gear at the transfer box end, the angle drive gear on the back of the speedo or an internal speedo issue. Angle drive gear grease can harden &...

You cannot adjust the standard rocker arms. The cam followers are hydraulic & do this automatically. You can adjust the height of the pillars (pedestals) that the rocker shafts are in. You need to take measurements & then work out the thickness of shims required. One shim goes under each...

As they don't like spending money I doubt they would have bothered if it wasn't necessary & I'm inclined to think it was probably showing up in numbers on vehicles during the warranty period.

The extension was due to changes to the rolling 40 year exemption for vehicle excise duty. An unintended consequence of the change was black & silver plates being able to be displayed on post 1/1/73 vehicles. The latest change stops other than approved reflective plates being displayed on...

Double post.

Check the drive cable from the transfer box to the transducer & the drive cable from the transducer to the speedo drive on the back of the speedometer inside the binnacle. Check that the inner cables (square ends) aren't broken - I suspect that's what happened.

Earlier (LT230 transfer box) like my '86 3.5EFi auto have a two piece speedo cable. Long one comes out of the drive unit on the transfer box & up into the car by the transmission tunnel side of the driver's side footwell. The shorter upper cable attaches to this end of the cable then up through...

+1

Just remembered. It blew the fuse on the petrol/LPG changeover - manually switched - as well & that's a 7.5 amp blade fuse. Default position of the relay is petrol & I can't remember which fuel I was on at the probable time it went so it wouldn't have stopped the car. If I had been on LPG the...