Search results

Thanks. This one? COMMON ECU FAILURES ON RANGE ROVER, CITROEN, MITSUBISHI AND OTHER EUROPEAN AND ASIAN CARS. (avilec.co.uk)

Please confirm which AFM & ECU combination you've got. Given it's a 3.5EFi I'm expecting it to be a flapper AFM & a 4CU ECU but conversion to the later hotwire isn't unusual. The flapper AFM is item 14 in this link: Lrcat The associated 4CU ECU has something of a reputation & the only way to...

Which Air Flow Meter and ECU does it have?

Now on the Range Rover forum www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/classic-1989-3-5-efi.383797/

Needs to be in the Range Rover section. Which AFM & ECU combination does yours have?

I assume so! My engine's always fired & run whilst I've still been spraying. Or just try crank & spray & stop when it starts to begin with.

When I've used it on the Sprinter I've always pulled the intercooler pipe off & directly into the manifold. Note that it is advised on the tin's label to squirt it in whilst the engine is being cranked - probably to stop the glow plugs igniting it!

Yes. I was just wondering if an extra jolt from easystart sprayed into the intake might help shift it.

Think the running it might not work as there is only the compression working for you, not a charge of diesel firing as well. Probably also won't help that the engine is cold. Wonder if starting it up then using easystart might help. (I've used the slacken the clamp bolt & start it on my Sprinter...

The outer braid is stainless steel. The inner pipe is PTFE Teflon. The point of the stainless braid is to stop pressure causing the pipe to expand. The whole thing is therefore thinner than the equivalent rubber hose & has a nicer cosmetic appearance. BUT with the rubber hose it's easy to see...

I've never liked the stainless steel braid covered aftermarket brake hoses no matter what the vehicle. They look very pretty but you can't see what state the hose itself is in & that's the important bit.

Interesting. UK manual doesn't give it one way or the other, but as you say it's clearly stated as a Major in the NI one. UK here. Section 7.8 www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment

OP last logged in May 2020. No update as to whether their cause was found.

As you remove the rocker shaft pillars - bolts hold these to the head - check for shims under the pillar bottoms. These - if necessary & there may not be any - are used to adjust the preload on the followers.

It's empty.

Worth watching the video. Hopefully you'll manage to get it out, but plan for 'worst case'. TBH I've not found taking mine off that much of a problem & bleeding was straightforward. I also replaced the input shaft seal in situ.

I don't know which box you've got on yours, but there's a 'how to' showing the dismantling of an adwest lightweight here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXQIsfBBhkk

Which vehicle? ETA Quick look at your profile suggests it's a Defender 110. Done this a couple of times in situ on my RRC (4 bolt box), but the circlip behaved itself after a bit of cleaning, lubricating & tapping. Last time I used the blue seal & put a speedisleeve on the shaft. Your old...

This one? www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202201131292862 No mention of any S/H & as it's a non runner you won't be able to check the big ticket items incl gearbox & suspension.

Are you after the rubber bits or replacement weld on mounts? If it's the latter then Froggatts. When I did the rear body to sill mount the rubbers etc came with it. As far as other bits are concerned I look up the part number then search online & compare prices so I've used quite a few...