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You checked the plug or inside the ecu?

It can only really be a wiring problem, so nope! I'm still open minded about where though. I don't see how the throttle wiring would affect the MAF. And the snag with that is that the MAF and throttle wires are in two different looms going to separate plugs on the ecu. I've no td5 experience...

Not necessarily, the ecu has been told it's two track but the diagnostics haven't so just doing their job. With the MAF still low though I doubt that the ecu will be inclined to give any more fuel.

Certainly, going back to standard is the best place to start. Why's it better with two tracks? Points to a dodgy track 3 or its wire to the ECU, and supported by its trace via Nanocom. But how can it put out more than 5v? Why did the MAF also look wrong? Have you got the log of the last drive...

It shouldn't make any difference. If it did then either track 3 is damaged (which I doubt - because it jumps to 6v when it's only supplied with 5) or the wire for track 3 is damaged, which again I doubt because of the 6v. Go for a longer drive!

'Fraid not. Try 'phoning them?

Ah, I think you read and liked while I was changing my mind...

Scrub what I just wrote. Try the loom. Because it was touching 6v I don't think the pedal potentiometer is the culprit.

I think it might be worth cleaning up that earth point, but if it looks ok when it's apart, it's probably ok. Failing that I'm afraid I'd break my own rule and follow @resto_d1's plan.

Well, if it's just stripped back it should still be doing its job. The fact that it's the black one is interesting. That's earth, and apparently there are four earth pins in the black connector. I don't know if there are four black wires matching those, but I see two on some diagrams. How many...

Try everything else and look for odd behaviour, indicators, hazards, brake lights - making them all operate with lights on, horn etc with someone outside looking for dim things or stuff coming on when you haven't commanded. There are various earth points and your problem could be either:- One...

I'd leave the fiddling until the electrics are sorted!

What changed between yesterday afternoon when the wheels were spinning and this morning when they wouldn't? And in either case were you doing full revolutions, and what did the opposite wheel do?

Good point, but within the first 100 miles of LR ownership, my 110 was losing drive at odd times. Putting it into low and high again would get it going. Got another couple of hundred miles out of it thinking it was probably some sort of selecter problem, but actually one of the centre bearings...

Possibly one of the centre bearings failing. Lets it slip out of high. Drain the oil and look for lumps.

If the propshaft jerks when you turn either wheel - does the opposite wheel do anything?

I like that, not as good as one big tube for full roll protection, but better than one standard one.

We've been watching breathlessly as you undertake your voyage of discovery.

The one and only time I had the head off a 200 I left it all attached after disconnecting the downpipe etc. Heavy, but quicker!

Mrs Tolley sells it direct, but I think you can get it in boat chandleries. I'm not sure that the good captain is still around, but they are/were boaters, cleverly solved a problem, and evidently had a sense of humour when naming it.