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Took time off the car and started to work on the batteries. Soldering all the 96 BMS sense wires and fuses took longer than I thought. The plan here was to charge the modules to the same voltages and match them in pairs with at least a 100mV delta. Over the next couple of days as...

More updates on the build here; I finished putting back the dash together and all wiring is done. These are the only errors I get on the dash. Starting from the left: 1. The hand-brake light will go off once I reinstall the hand brake and loop the brake fluid level sensor. 2. The doors light...

With a push to put the dash back together, I built the replacement electric heater for the engine-driven one using a 1000W PTC heater capable of 500W and 1000W working modes. I made a custom holder to match the original engine coolant-driven heater dimensions and it slides into the AC...

Yes, I will water-cool the batteries using the same loop with the charger and DC-DC converter. This is a separate loop from the one cooling the Tesla drive unit. There is a custom double-sided double-pass water block that sits between the battery packs that I intend to order from China or build...

Yep, I actually used your findings to validate what I got. Let me put together my finding and solutions and share them with you. Correct, I initially planned to have 32kWh total but found out I could have 16KWh at the back fuel tank space and 32kwh in the front bonnet space (which is basically...

@Alibro Think this is the best use of the fuel tank space I could come up with. The entire 16kwh 400V pack will fit here.

That took me a whole 2 months to sort out, on and off as I had work as well. But was definitely worth it. I mostly removed the engine ECU and gearbox EAT-related wiring PS: I was able to test out the CAN system extensively as well and formulated a few solutions to the loss of the Engine and EAT...

Thanks, and you are right, that fuel tank area is a trapezium cross-section. Found a way of building a battery box that fitted it. I will update you on how the steering rack works and feels

Then I mounted the drive unit to the new frame and buttoned it up for installation to the car.

Thank you all! Especially to you Alibro, You put me on this path! :D I re-used the original steering column. I only swapped the steering mechanism; replaced the hydraulic one with the electric one. You will be surprised to note that the Freelander hydraulic rack is an almost perfect match to...

The new subframe test fitting was great! Went the extra step of test fitting the battery box and determining if my initial plan works....and it does!!!

Built the first and second iterations of the frame for the motor and finally perfected it for strength

At this point, the interior mechanic looked good with all the steering, brake, and accelerator pieces installed. I shifted my focus to building a mount for the Tesla drive unit. I started with the original suspension mounts

Used the template to make and paint a new accelerator mount

That completed the electric steering rack installation so I moved on to the accelerator pedal build. I used the original accelerator pedal and made a template for the electric accelerator pedal I wanted to install.

I shortened the original stock steering column to fit the new electric rack. I had to weld in a steel rod between the two pieces for strength.

Then I installed the electric steering rack to find out if it fits the existing steering column length. And it does!!!

Next was adjusting the steering rack wiring to fit the tight angles by cutting and re-soldering the sensor wiring to fit the new smaller space

Now I moved to start fitting the electric steering rack...started by marking out and cutting the new steering hole

The brake pedal was fitted and all looked and worked well. Once the electrical is complete I will wire this for full tests and operation after bleeding exercises.