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I think they are the same but don't quote me on that. Have you considered trying to repair yours? I successfully replaced the plates on a couple of cars by (very carefully) cutting out the old ones and making replacements from sheet alloy secured with cable ties. The bars were in good enough...

If you can't do it properly then take it to someone who can, brakes are the most critical part of your car and the thought of them failing because of a stupid bodge doesn't bare thinking about. Think about it, they will be most likely to fail when you need them most, like when coming off a...

Sod the diesel! Make it leccy if you want decent acceleration. :p

The bigger question is what will @Nodge68 do with all the free time now he has no LR to maintain. Maybe we should club together and get him a wee project. :oops: Can't have him getting lazy on us. 🤣

Glad to hear it's going again. Weather has been a bit odd last few days, We had two days of unbroken sunshine Fri and Sat and the hottest days this year. Today a bit overcast and windy but still dry.

I used a cheapo from ebay a few years ago and it lasted for 6 months or so until I sold the car. No idea how much longer it lasted but fixed the fault at the time.

If you can get it off the old one without breaking anything then go for it.

Pull off the propshaft and see what you think. It will only take an hour or two and you can do it with standard 1/4" sockets and a couple of spanners. If I remember correctly an 8mm socket fits the torx at the front well enough to hold it while you loosen the nut with a spanner and a 10mm fits...

I'm assuming you have a FL1 TD4 as talking about low and high pressure pumps. The TD4 throttle pedal is electronic so it sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU will not let the car rev if there is something badly wrong but it's not likely to be the pedal.

I don't like to push my luck with the support plate the wheel cylinder is bolted too. I'd probably end up wrecking it.

The one I have came from B&Q but is basically the same. It is great for sanding and grinding those awkward places like the bolt in a wheel cylinder. This one is great value too as I'm sure I paid more for mine a year or two ago.

There is no anti roll bar in the rear so they just cocked up and sent the wrong thing.

I use a power finger file to grind the heads off wheel cylinder bolts. Only takes a couple of minutes and no swearing required. Something like this will save hours of grief. https://ebay.us/8BV6CX

I'm assuming you have an FL2 so not familiar as no rear ALB on FL1 but shouldn't they both be the same length? In any case when changing them make sure you jack up BOTH front wheels and it will be much easier. First time or two I did the job I struggled big time as only jacked up one wheel.

Ain't you got a K series in the MG?

Good luck with the new car. If you're handy and don't mind a bit of work then refurbing the VCU yourself is absolutely doable.

It didn't happen if we can't see the photo's and videos! 😊 Well done mate, I'm sure you also get a kick out of driving past folk who can't understand why it's so quiet.

Bigger bolts are two short and one long grunt, smaller just a grunt or two.

Drove it for the first time in over a week. Had to jump start it as the 12V battery is bad and the voltage was low but was able to do that with an old 12V 3Ah sealed lead acid battery. One of the perks of no ICE. :p