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Went and bought a 4.2sc l322, great price and honest seller, interior is perfect, bodywork needs paint on arches but not rotten and whole car just needs a good polish, went down a farm track in it today and then heard a grinding sound, turned out one of the pins on handbrake had pulled through...

Big job to change it, mines was crispy but solid, good hammering to knock loose off then spray wax etc.

Didn’t ask him about receipt, will catch him tomorrow, I will have a look into them chargers.

Neither me or him have a charger, I used to have one but damp got to it.

Merc C class not really that new as It only has 1 battery for everything not one for engine and one for electrics like newer ones but still enough ecus. Even a parasitic drain would drain a battery in ten mins would it? Even if you leave lights on or radio cars normally last longer. Personally...

I don’t think it could be much else, as I say once started runs fine no warning lights etc, turn off and voltage drops off so to me it’s taking power but not storing it.

Agree there a good long run will help but if the battery has an internal fault no matter how many miles it won’t help, to me that’s what it is, internal failure, runs great after a jump then soon as engine is off power just goes, even saw the interior lights dim to off within the time I was...

Will mention ctek charger, didn’t think of them, see what he says, depending on how long he keeps driving 1 new battery may see him through, he did seem a bit worried about it, I said if it’s the battery that’s knackered it should keep behaving as it is, starts with jump then runs all day then...

I did ask him if he had a charger to put on a slow charge to try and fix it but he doesn’t and neither do I so looks like replacement. I seem to recall a mate of mine years ago having a similar issue, he took his battery to a auto electrics place who charged 50p to charge it then phoned him and...

Just as I thought then, being old he said “battery isn’t that old” but his 2 years could be 5 or 10, just the way it behaves, jumps fine drives great, no charge lights on dash etc but park up, engine off, within ten mins it’s flat again, I know some cars have drain on them but never known a...

Hi guys, not strictly Land Rover but the guy in question used to have them, anyway neighbor of mine, old guy who still tries so do his own stuff asked me to jump his car, it’s not been used in a good while, got it going he went out came back, hour later battery was flat again, he said he took it...

Good old td6, have to love em’.

Good stuff, if you need technical advice just send them an email, normally you get a very in depth reply, really good firm to deal with. If you do your gearbox service definitely take sump off and have a look for filings etc and change filter, possibly allow two changes as a lot of fluid stays...

Which one did you find best? I tend to go to Morris as there’s a local distributor to me and there great fluids, been around since time began, but quite a rare company to most people but anyone in industry or commercial vehicles knows morris.

Possibly, just go on somewhere like Opie oils site and enter reg and select transmission, should bring it up, or Morris lubricants do a oil finder page on there site, enter reg and it will show what transmission oil is needed.

I am considering buying one and making an adapter to fit in my flypress. Then I can use it in situ with the threaded bars and in press for bearing pushing etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144932636366?hash=item21bea886ce:g:bTAAAOSw48pj4H1U&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Alz%2BlbeQ4a9WAEcQ7glwR4pYYPSdVGRf6wazIS3E4DzlZb%2FPEvU7y%2BCFoHuGSy%2FUtcya%2B7q0qJE4nGb94GU51gIwh3gDZXgBOUG6ZS1jduTtl%2Byn7OvwWcgC9ZVGNmjPC%2FWZGk2mt3H1nDiMhi7qI%2B8Z%2FfjGsLO2Fs2PlpKOIGx92NdkHx...

Took advantage of fine weather and got lower hub bushes/ rose joints changed, very easy with a push pull tool, hardest bit was removing the big circlip, even the bolts came out in good condition. Front track rod ends to do over weekend than find somewhere that can do 4 wheel alignment.

Same as my td6, rear have contitech and LR logo, don’t know if genuine or LR approved parts etc but I have an old invoice for rear bags done at a LR dealer so I’d imagine genuine, seem decent though.

Overheating and boiling coolant and smoke or steam from exhaust one side of the V head gasket failed would be my guess, possibly made worse driving with it overheating. Root cause could have been something else like failed water pump etc or air lock- something to prevent coolant circulation...