Search results

Had to sort my 06 4.2 RR out as it developed a leak from gearbox wiring sleeve so ordered parts Friday, rearranged jobs for today and got stuck in, new sleeve, new oil and sump, took about 3 hours but drives better now.

That’s what I mean, it’s too tight for access with the actual metal shell of the car getting in the way of getting grips or stillsons etc on that metal cup.

Can’t get anything down at moment as the large hex socket on the weight doesn’t go through and no room at the sides to get anything in, when turning the hex on the weight everything seems to rotate, unlike the passenger side where the weight it solid. That’s what made me think is the top nut...

That was what I read the other day but the weight is locktighted to the mounting and even when warmed up the whole thing rotates and there isn’t enough room to get something to grip it’s mounting cup from in the engine, need to take strut out and have it in a vice then get something like...

That’s what I was thinking if I can pull the strut out and remove the threaded weight then torque up the cup it screws onto and the top damper nut it should help, it did have new front struts about 3/4 years back with previous owner and they still look in good condition. Like I say it was...

Surprised if they make so much difference that without them it would feel “unsettled” never had them on my td6 but then a 4.2sc is a more refined animal.

One reason I’m removing and checking/ swapping the drivers strut is a clunk bit like a knackered top mount, iv noticed the weight moves and can turn within its cup which I believed to be held on with the shock absorber/ damper top nut where passengers side is solid, iv also got a odd noise a bit...

Hi everyone just about to swap a strut on my 4.2sc l322 and just wondering about the weight that’s on top of the strut, according to workshop manual only models with brembo brakes have them supposedly called brake vibration damper, now this may be a stupid question as iv never seen them before...

Quite rare to hear of issues especially HG failure on the 4.2sc, generally classed as the most reliable RR engine.

Same place as mine, I just gave it a good clean and degrease then clear CT1 and work it in the joint. Looks neat enough and not an area seen much.

Timing chains are fine on the 4.2 it’s the bmw v8 and earlier jag 5.0 that had issues. Long as it’s had oil changes it’s fine. Gearbox is the zf6 speed so yeah service it.

Gave mine a quick wash, polish and Autoglym rapid ceramic spray, made it look tons better after it was covered in mud from clay shooting earlier in the week.

Good luck. It can be a pain but once sorted it’s worth it, saves electrics getting wet each time it rains. The joys of RR ownership, I’m going away Monday and my 06 4.2S/C has decided to have the rear drivers caliper seize, I knew the passenger one wasn’t great so it’s reluctantly staying at...

Double check tail gate hinges, I had to do mine a couple of times, they need to be clean and sealed all round and inside otherwise water still gets in.

I will say iv jacked under the lower arm when my 3 ton jack wasn’t long enough to go right under, I tend to put the jack in the recess where the air bag bolt goes, it’s never moved and all it’s does it get the suspension to try and self level but that all sorts out when let down again.

Gave mine a good clean after all that salt on roads and changed drop links as they started to knock then went and collected a mondeo estate so that’s now the work car and the supercharged Rangie is the weekend / other half’s car now, helps keep miles down on it not using for work.

That was one of the first things I did was test temp but no noticeable difference. I am going to order a new ball joint as I recall the noise started after that and read a few posts that say ball joints can make odd noises. Even though it’s new doesn’t mean it’s a good part.

Think I’ll change the drivers side bearing and take it from there. Definitely sounds front end and can be felt through steering but only when Turing.

Could you feel the bearing through steering? Mine can be felt slightly through wheel when turning right.

“Long motorway corners” that’s where I hear mine or roundabouts taken quicker, as in big roundabouts, not min ones… not trying to handbrake it round them 🤣. Another is motorway slips with right hand bend. As I say very slight straight ahead but louder going right, also seems worse on certain...