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Could be the cap.... make sure it's on tight and take it for a good run (up to working temp) then turn off engine. Squeeze the top hose, if its firm but with some give, it's probably OK. If its rock hard like a fully inflated bike tyre then it's most likely head gasket. Unfortunately it's most...

If your work involves using your D2 to transport coffins to funerals then yes. You will have the acceleration of a galapagos tortoise. Snails will overtake you on gentle hills. You will need to book an appointment to pull out of a junction... No. I wouldn't recommend it - From experience of both...

@02Disco2 - Just read this thread, mine did exactly what you say in your first post, just before my in-tank pump died. 3000rpm and no more. Check the obvious first - listen for the pump priming at ignition II position. No noise, dead pump...

A ring of teeth inside the hub which the sensor 'counts' as the wheel spins, so it knows how fast the wheel is rotating, so it can activate TC or ABS as required. If there's play in the hub, the sensor can't work as required, hence It throws up a fault.

Check the water pump. Mine had a leak but only over about 2500 rpm. Get someone to rev it and look at the small weep-hole on the side of the pump casing.

I was actually referring to a D1. I haven't had an issue with my D2 lock nuts. I believe the D1 locking nuts are in 2 parts. I assumed the d2 were the same. Still, a decent hole saw will still reduce the diameter of d2 nuts.

I bought a security wheel nut removal tool. Its a 'socket' with a left hand thread which screws onto the nut, then when tight, it starts to unscrew the nut... in theory... I found that the tool was too small to fit disco wheel nuts, so I got a drill and and old hole saw which I think was 34mm...

I must be unlucky because I've had two! To be fair, this latest one was 2nd hand, unknown mileage and it's lasted 3 years. According to Ashcrofts website, it's not uncommon on higher mileage torque converters.

Lol, I won't be doing it myself...

Well some better news, I've managed to get hold of a low mileage Sachs (apparently better quality than original LR version) torque converter for £150. Just need to get it fitted now....

There is - in bucket-loads. Sadly, I don't think anyone lives close enough to help.

No mate, it's a 2nd hand/recon torque converter, gearbox out job and I haven't got the tools or the know-how to do it. It's going to cost me in the region of £500 to get it fixed. Money I haven't got right now. :(

Erm... did you read the full post?....:rolleyes:

My disco passed it's mot this morning:) The bad news... this afternoon, the annoying 'exhaust rattle' revealed it's true identity... broken torque converter bracket. Once the 'tapping/ticking' under load had transformed into 'loose spanners shaken in a metal bucket' I knew exactly what it was. A...

Could even be the clip on the side of the gearbox which holds the gear selector cable has broken. Happened to me...

It doesn't mean it's overheating, it means you have a bad leak and the cooling system has emptied itself, therefore there is no coolant left to measure the temperature of. However this also means some parts of the engine WILL overheat. Fill up the system, get the engine up to temp, then get...

On the other hand, it could be a leaking water pump. It has a little weep hole on the casing. It may appear as a small drip with the engine idling but when revved above about 2500-3000rpm, it will gush out of the little hole. Obviously whilst driving it, that will empty your cooling system...

Why did you replace the top hose? Had it burst? Take it for a run, get it up to temperature then switch off and check the top hose. If it feels solid, like a fully inflated bike tyre, then you have overpressure in the cooling system. If you're lucky, it's as simple as a faulty pressure cap...

It's actually 2 metal parts joined by a lump of rubber inside. Usually the rubber separates causing the weighted part to slip. In my case, (and probably yours if you have a lot of movement) 2 of the joining lugs snapped. You can see it wobble clearly with the engine running

I undid mine by putting a block of wood on the chassis, resting the breaker bar on it then flicking the engine on and off very quickly...