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As an update it's not the stop solenoid or wiring, not the fuel filter, not the lift pump, not the leak off pipes. Haven't changed the pipes to and from the tank but highly doubt it's the problem. If we are convinced it's a fuel problem that only leaves injectors or injection pump. Would it be a...

Thanks ever so much Lynall, I did indeed need to rotate the engine a complete revolution for the timing pin to line up. My mistake, atleast that's one less thing to think about. Fitted the new cut off solenoid, haven't started the engine yet to test it. Ordered a lift pump and enough pipe to...

Ok, will give it a go tomorrow if its not raining, many thanks.

Thank you lynall. That is pretty much what I thought. So, the injection pump timing/pulley seems to be 180° out of position compared to the alignment of the crank pulley and flywheel, is that possible somehow? I put some photos in my previous post ^

@Hicap phill @lynall @tottot I have some specific questions with regards to the timing if you don't mind. The following photos are with the flywheel pinned and pulley at TDC. 1. How far should the pin go into the injection pump? See photos. 2. Other pictures I have seen the pin should be at...

The fuel filter was full to the brim and the lift pump was new this year and it pumps well. It has a rubber pipe from tank to lift pump which is about 5 years old. There is no vacuum in the fuel tank. I have the complete timing kit as in your first link. It may be a coincidence but I'm not so...

Thanks for the reply. What concerns me is that something must have moved as it was running really well until this past week. Belt tensioner bolt loose? Do you mean the pulley slots on the end of the injection pump?

Ok, had time to do a little work on it. After changing the filter my son took it out and the symptoms are worse, no power now, he had to drive back in low range. I haven't checked the timing before so please point out if I have got anything wrong. I aligned the slot in the flywheel, after noting...

We used to have a chap come along on our greenlane trips who was in a wheel chair. He converted his manual 1960s Series 2a to hand controls. My son has his number if you are interested in speaking to him Clutch worked off a button I think. Wonder if you can shuffle the pedals around for using...

Oh, bit of a pointless warranty if it doesn't cover a mechanical problem, wonder what it does cover?

Get it fixed under warranty would be the first port of call.

Sounds more like gearbox issue rather than a mount I would have thought. Could you not return under warranty?

Td5 has a gasket between centre and rear box. I filed the flange so it was flat/smooth and used the gasket and a little bit of paste for good measure.

You can get a straight through rear section aswell but along with centre box delete it will make no difference to sound of the exhaust............unless you remove the cat.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-fuel-air-emission-systems/exhaust-gas-recirculation/valve-and-pipes_53444

They come up on Ebay, saw one the other week for £25, 2nd hand but looked clean.

Ebay probably .

In the video it's not us switching it off, it's just taking our foot of the pedal and it cutting out by itself I haven't got very far with it yet, although I did change the leak off pipes and filter as we had some. It starts well and tick over is very smooth BUT haven't had the chance to drive...

We put deluxe seats in the 2a. Can't see how they would be strong enough as the lower fixing bolt is more like a swivel so you can fold the seat forward. The seat rested against the stops on the rear bulkhead, truck cab, when upright.

While they have it ask them to pump some cavity wax inside the box section and treat the other side of the crossmember with some sort of protection spray. It's common to have to get a new crossmember welded on due to rust.