pwood999's latest activity

Heat it up & peel slowly.

Even the CV joint looks wrong ?? Usually the hub obscures that.

BTW, UK cars generally don't light the MIL like the US versions do. Definitely check the sensor connectors either side of the block first, and measure the resistance. Could also be the connector on the GEMS ECU, but that's less likely.

+1 on sort the blend motors. Step-1 try moving them to 50% with Nanocom, and also try the Calibration option. Essentially you have two issues, i.e. the blend & distribution motors, plus probably no gas causing the compressor clutch error.

Your pictures show Open/Close and Close/Open - exactly as it should be. Where are you seeing both closed at same time, or open at same time ? Take a video & upload it to YouTube. Then paste the link here.

It would if the left & right are too far different. It's fairly easy to check. 1) Put car on blocks again & compare the L & R sensor values. That will tell you if they are close across the chassis. 2) Remove blocks & let ECU go to Normal...

I've seen that "one corner high" on mine, but never figured out why. Also had it consistently leaning to the right on a brive home from Buckingham. Stopped at services & switched off. Then bounced the corners manually & after re-starting it...

Easy enough to access. Just unbolt the mounts & turn it over. The EAS 12V is on C174. Plenty of ignition switched feeds under there as well.

BTW, treat Nanocom EAS recordings as a genral guide, not an accurate indication of what's happening. The EAS data rate is far too slow to give a realistic picture, because by the time Nanocom reads the values, the ECU have already reacted &...

Are the Sensor voltages going up & down ? Could also be the sensor connectors either side of the block. They do tend to gather oil down there.

+1 on pressure gauge - directly on the pump should be >>>> 150psi. Also check the pump 12V feed. If there's any voltage loss (even 0.5-1.0V makes a difference) through that connector the pump can struggle. Remember it pulls 10-15A unless...

Exactly what I always assumed as well - i.e. it's already stretched. But I have re-used them on many cars over the years, except my Blue P38 which now has Arp Studs.

. . . . . and one other point. If you do this, make sure you wait for the BECM & EAS to go to sleep before doing any wiring. If you interupt the EAS before it sleeps, you can end up with odd behaviour where the car drops to access every time...

One of mine had an extra ignition switched relay when I bought it. (some sort of tracking & DVD system). So I simply moved the feed from F44 to the timer relay to go via this extra relay. Upside: No self leveling when the car is off - tank &...

The pressure switch is always open, so it looks like the pump never achieves required pressure. If the system isn't leaking then the pump needs a refurb again. TBH, I have found the refurb kits never seem to last as long as they used to (both...

Read the Nanocom guides first, so you know what the menus do for each ECU. Also check the seat fuses. With Ignition on, you need to read the EMS code, and write it down. Then with Ignition off, write that into the Immobilisation Code box in...

Check the switches with a multimeter. Also check the ABS ECU inputs for 12V when you press & release the pedal. Look through the RAVe diagram for the most convenient points. You could also try the other ECU inputs. Several of them show the...

1) Sounds like US Rental cars - they always beel when locking & unlocking ? 2) Don't open the door wiht the key - use the FoB.

The compressor clutch error is saying the HEVAC is not seeing the expected current from the compressor clutch. Low gas opens the dual pressure switch, so the clutch cannot operate. But it could also be a faulty or open circuit clutch ...

Not for the Nanocom input values. They are simply what the ECU sees from switches or sensors. Pin-1 is 12V from BECM. Pin-2 signals brake on to ABS ECU pin-14, and Diesel Engine ECU pin-31. Pin-3 to various other places to signal brake on...

Does the pressure switch definitely change state ? Another path for tank leak is via NRV-1 & out the exhaust silencer when the pump is off & diaphragm open.

Check again with Nanocom, but wait a second or two for both to register. Not sure which is sw-1 & sw-2 from RAVE diagram. Pedal released - Pin 3 open & pin-2 closed. Pedal pressed - Pin-3 closed & pin-2 open. There might be a mid point in the...

Easy to check - just re-plug the RF receiver direct & see if the FOB communicates. Assuming Nanocom is working, clear the RF memory. Then press the fob & read the memory again.

If you have Marty's filter, then you do not need the antenna disconnected . . . . . . but local RF interference will still cause reduced FOB range. At home I have to be with 10 feet of the car, but at work the FOB works 30-40 feet away. FYI...

@MontyChambers did you do the Nanocom check (not while driving) on the two inputs ? No point in replacing the switch unless you're sure it's broke !! The RAVE procedure had a missing bit between 7 & 8. It should be: 7. Extend switch plunger...

You can't change the setting because it's an input. The switch on the pedal frame has two contacts in it. Onbe is normall closed & the other normally open. Therefore both toggle on Inputs screen on the Nanocom when you press the pedal.

You need the both CDL & Keyswitch working to sync the fob. MGF latches are usually cheaper, but make sure you get the version with three microswitches. Rimmers have new LHD drivers latches for £46 which is usually cheaper than second hand on...

Personally, I would do what is needed to remove the remains of the bolt and use a new bolt.

With arms like that the ball joints should be easy.

@kermit_rr the way this saga is going you're get this thread to 42000 in no time !!