pwood999's latest activity

RAVE assumes you drained the system previously. You seem to have missed 12 & 13 in the procedure ? Personally I have an issue with step 17-18. Step-17a should be to top up the system while the thermostat is still open !! Also during...

I suspect the "disconnect battery and short ECU 12V & ground together" method is completely irrelavent on modern cars. It generally comes from old pre-OBD ECU with volatile memory. But it gives you something to do while waiting for recovery !!

Did you follow the RAVE fill procedure ? If not, then you will almost certainly have an airlock. Are you getting flow through the small pipe from the radiator to the coolant tank ? Also did you clear it before starting the fill ? As others...

As Kermit says, they are separate issues. You have confirmed the replacement accumulator has fixed the pump running every brake press. Brake lights on the back of the car are most likely the pedal switch - reset the adjustment, or replace it...

I suspect you still have airlocks in there ? You could also put the sensor in boiling water & see what your diag tool says then ?

3 glowplugs wqere replaced last year. The one in cylinder-2 is still stuck fast in the engine. But these should only impact starting, and not running whne engine is warm. EGR blank arrived & waiting for FIP & Regulator seals - these will be...

or a thin spanner

+1 on this. Did you remove both sodes at the same time ? If so, thats why the asle rotated a bit.

If the header tank cap is tight with no leaks, I would say until you release the pressure. more likely is a slow depressurise through the pump (unless it has a suitable valve ?)

When I did mine I did the chamfer about 5-6mm. Next I do some, I plan to buy one of those taper bearing races (unless someone nearby has the LR tool).

Did you chamfer / bevel the end of the bush plastic outer ? If not it's difficult / impossible to even get it started. Ring compressor is a good idea, but with jubilee clamps you can remove them one at a time as the bush goes in.

I have ordered fuel pump & regulator seal kits to do. Can't definitely see any fuel escaping, but the pump does look like it might be. I did check the sensor volts at idle and it was about 1.7V, but that could be the ECU adjusting the...

Today's update. Cleaned out the intercooler & all the silicon hoses, so now the entire inlet system is cleaned out. Ran the engine with EGR blocked off & inlet manifold off to check for fumes from the turbo using a small cardborad box on the...

+1 and at around £100 + shipping for all four, quite good value.

As you've got schrader valves, you can adjust the height manually, checking the sensor voltages & bit-counts throughout their range. Easier to debug the wiring that way, and you don't need to worry about reading faults or the ECU adjusting...

That's not a press tool. It looks like its from a brake wind back kit ?

I also used the "drill near to the plastic outer method". Much easier than trying to press the old bushes out. You will definitely need either the proper tool, or several jubilie clamps & the taper bearing for the new bushes.

Read this thread, and then get the taper bearing shell & some jubilee clips to stop the bushes expanding. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-radius-arm-bushes-without-press.357110/post-4797433

Before removing the IRD, in RAVE it says to drain both the IRD (agreed), but also drain the automatic geabox fluid. Is it really necessary to do the transmission ?

Nanocom does not show correct voltage. Needs a voltmeter measurement on battery and also alternator to confirm any cable loss between the two.

+1 on both sides of the gasket. A continous bead with no gaps.

Must be a big tupperware box for the steel bumpers ?

Did a 5 mile runs in Son & Wife's Freelanders. Both on local roads & couple of miles on a dual carriage way. The MPG was done using my Car Scanner Pro app on iPhone with a Tonwan bluetooth OBD dongle. Wife's = 3-door, 2005 (1st picture) Son's...

Ideally don't post the same question twice ?? Then follow the advice in the other thread.

You will struggle on those ramps. Also probably dangerous to have the car on it's wheels with raduis arm(s) removed because there nothing to stop the axle moving back & forth. It really needs tall axle stands supporting the chassis.

+1 on support the car & let the axle hang on the shocks. Do them one side at a time & the axle will rotate less when loosening & doing up the bolts.

Bad joints in fusebox ?

My blue P38 has single rear pipe & centre box. It sounds much more throaty than the green P38 which has the standard twin pipe system. Not excessively loud, but enough to turn heads, especially at pedestrian crossings if I rev it !!

Heavy mate & long bar ?

After my rebuild I ran mine with just the cats. It was good but . . . . . . .