Well as it is the servo you want the good news is that the type 80 is a lot cheaper than the one for a Defender 300tdi. Yours is a Land Rover Ninety and what you should quote for spare parts, except for the engine of course. RTC3387 seal repair kit.

I prefer to stick with EP80 oil in the housing myself, splashes about and feeds the pin some through the hole in the bush base. However many get on fine with the one shot grease. It would be good to give the bush and the the thrust washer that goes in the bottom a soak in oil for few hours...

Gear box suffix's work much the same way, although when series 3 came out they went back to A but in a different place.

No earth. Read my post above again.

Turbo nuts are not ones I would like to disturb [unless it is needing renewal] There are ten bolts holding manifolds on, got them all?

A comes before B.

If you have an Agri parts[tractor and other farm stuff] place somewhere your way they likely could make you up a set if you take your old in for them to match.

I had a new old type 80 servo for mine a while back from "rstlandrovers" Mines a 1990 model What year is yours?

Crud in the reservoir is usually very small bits of seals from the master. The pedal slowly going down is a sign fluid is passing around inside the cylinder.

What model of series one do you have?

Get a Corteco seal.

Part of the throttle pedal body

Get a Corteco seal. You tube for "Britannica restorations" 110 diff seal video.

I am not that well versed in the Td5 issues but it may well be so. Try giving the wiring a wiggle while running, if engine management light comes on it points that way. Throttle pot may be another source but start with the simple cheap stuff.

Not an uncommon issue, rewire kit to be had, try the Ebay.

And Land Rover said they were going metric in 1980!:rolleyes:

A basic test for the vacuum pump Is remove pipe from the servo and with engine running put your thumb over the end, pipe sticks on vac is good.

If the rhythm varies as you turn the steering wheel some, it could well be a bearing on the way out. Bearings can go on some time being noisy. I have just done one on my car as it was getting well noisy. Have a feel of the hub flange after a drive, one could find one warmer than others...

You and me pal.

Given it is a right mix of parts it can be difficult for us here to exactly advise on the issues, but someone into basic old school electrics would sort it no bother. Give us a rough location of where you are and someone here will likely know of somewhere you can take it.