Chassis is fine. I had the tank out last year to replace the fuel lines. It had surface rust but was solid. I wire brushed it, coated in rust killer and then in waxoyl.

Sorry, I was on holiday! I got mine from JGS 4x4. They list on ebay and are always very good!

This one? POWER STEERING PIPES (RHD, WITH POWER STEERING) O RING, LOW PRESSURE PIPE TO PAS BOX Part number: QYX100260

Ours does the 240 mile trip from Bedfordshire to Tenby several times a year. Cruising at 75-80 on the M3 is no problem, unless you have a straight through front pipe, in which case your ears will ring afterwards..........

I can't believe how rotten the rear step was on my 2003 Disco with less than 90k on it! I also had to replace the rear brake shields as they had holes in along with the calipers, discs and brake carriers. I do wonder if it was used to reverse a boat into the sea.........Chassis is all good...

I just replaced both rear calipers on mine, along with the discs, back plates, pads and carriers. Everything was completely rotten. Not good on an '03 car with less than 90k on the clock. I bought Bearmach calipers. They were a good price and appear to work well. My only gripe was the boxes...

Nice. Watch those roof bars on the way out of the carpark! ;)

Don't forget to check the cambelt change has been done if it's reached the age/mileage. Replacement is a big wedge of money. I was thinking of changing to a D3 early last year, and every single one I looked at was either due or overdue................

Not good. To be honest I'd be wary of Ashcrofts. When the clutch/flywheel etc needed doing on my last Td5 I opted to go for a recon box because there was only a few hundred quid difference over just having the clutch done. With hindsight it was a mistake. The car was never the same again (part...

It looks like my old one too! I used to have a pre-face lift one in the same colour with the same wheels. The neighbours didn't notice when I changed it last year!

Good luck! If you find a good one you'll love it.

It's probably also worth getting the gear lever rubber gaiter that fits on the top of the transmission (FTC5252 + cable tie UYD100000) and the one that sits on the tunnel (AWR5526) as these are usually shot.

Bias plate, springs and railko bush replacement would be a good start. Easy job (as long as you have a pop riveter) and the parts are cheap.

I agree with the above. I've done the wiring modification on 3 Td5's now and none of them have had the amigo's return :)

Manual box on mine and I get around 27 mpg on my daily commute. My last Td5 with de-cat and straight through front pipe used to top 30 mpg easily, but would make my ears bleed at motorway speeds...........

Actually, thinking about it I have noticed a very intermittent lack of power, which would tie in with the MAF and injector loom faults.... Stack of parts ordered from JGS: Injector loom Rocker cover gasket Injector washers and seals (might as well do those while I'm there) MAF sensor ACE valve...

That explains that one. Mine is a manual and my mates is an auto (this code wasn't showing on his).

I thought that on the injector, but the loom plugs are dry as a bone both at the head and the ECU.

I have a few fault codes logged which come back after I clear them with my scanner (iCarsoft i930): 1. Air flow circuit fault: Logged High = MAF sensor? 2. Road speed missing fault: Logged = Not too worried about this one as my mate's D2 shows the same on my scanner. 3. Can error fault =...

Fixed it! As mentioned earlier, the i930 was showing one SVS switch closed with no brake pedal pressure applied. With the i930 in view and the display showing the SVS switch positions, I dropped the SVS switch pack from the bottom of the modulator. As soon as I started dropping the switch pack...