To be fair, I don't think there is anything regarding how the hotwire injection and ignition systems work that hasn't been covered in the V8 section, it is really just a case of deciding which search terms to use, there is lots of detail regarding checks and tests to get the old V8's running...

Have you tried a search in the V8 section? depending on what you search for will yield different results. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-9-efi-no-fuel-wont-start-tested-injectors-right-bank-8-ohms.391395/...

If I have understood what you're saying, you have a spark at the plugs but no fuel at the injectors. The injectors are on a switched ground, the ECU does this. Check the EFI loom grounds. The injection pulse is sent to the ECU from the negative side of the coil. If the wire is broken or...

Like Discool says, not much to it really. If you can trace the loom back a bit from the tank, from what I remember the Range Rover loom had a connector behind the rear left wheel, might be worth checking to see if there is a corroded plug.

If it does, then first thing to check is the main efi power relay and the fuel pump relay, assuming they both work, check the distributor. Basic checks may have been done, but not clear if anyone has considered the ignition amplifier - trust me they can just stop working; happened to me once...

What to do next? STOP. looks like you have a GEMS engine, it is very similar to the older Lucas hotwire system, on that basis I would: 1: do wet and dry compression test. 2: check for inlet leaks. 3: check/set throttle pot base voltage. 4: The ignition is, I believe ecu controlled so you...

I suspect part of the problem is that without any push rods between followers and valves, the valves don't open and close as they are supposed to. As a result, you have "compression" in all 8.

Hahaha, that made me chuckle. I certainly remember to close the aluminium top tailgate required a firm push on the centre handle and an equally firm hand on the bottom right corner, glad I don't have to do that any more.

Wow, handbags at dawn! The ignition system on these things is not complex. The common culprits for no spark seem to have been discounted. Because there is fuel it can't be the ignition amplifier. Because it runs it isn't distributor, rotor arm. leads, plugs or reluctor air gap. AFAIK the coil...

I believe the EGR valves are different as is the emissions control. Pre 7A vin EGR's can be blanked without a software patch but after that vin, you need the patch.

Mmmmmm....... intriguing. If you didn't sort this yet, try checking out the bits that make up the idle controls. So, after making sure you don't have any inlet leaks check the ignition timing as already advised but also check the vac advance is working properly. Stepper (idle control valve or...

Blimey, talk about thread revival, there is almost a pulse! Nice to hear you are still doing stuff Jai. TDCIST, I remember THAT recovery - t'was certainly some sort of mission. The thought of some sort of get together sounds great. Given enough notice I think I could probably arrange to venture...

I think Datatek is right. I had this a good few years ago now. New accumulator sorted it. If you've never done a full bleed on the brakes proceed with caution. You absolutely must follow the workshop manual, there are no shortcuts and if there is a lot of air in the booster, accumulator and pump...

FWIW I would have a close look at the O2 sensors. You mention Rovergauge, have a look at the fuel trims. The thing is you are saying it gets all out of shape when it gets up to temperature. A 1995 car should have lambda probes but the ECU ignores them during warm up. Once warm the ecu looks at...

+1 on Vac advance on the distributor. Check the base voltage on the throttle pot. This needs to be right so the ECU switches on idle stabilisation. If the voltage is too high the ecu won't correct the idle speed. HTH

FWIW I would say your throttle pot value is a little high. Try backing it off a little so the base value is say 0.27v - 0.30v, check resistance and scaling just to be happy. What value is your CO trim? The remapped ECU might also be associated with slightly richer mixture. I vaguely remember...

Hi Gary, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do the lower arms yourself. The back section of the exhaust is suspended on 3 rubbers, so just pry them off and let the exhaust drop, you might need to use a bungee cord or something to help support it but you only need to drop it enough to give...

Had a quick look see, rear lower arm bolts are not too bad but you will need to drop the back section of the exhaust to get access to the rear bolts. The front bolts should be no problem. Have taken some pics.

No worries Gary. If I get time later I'll put the disco on the ramp and see if I can get the windy gun on the lower arm bolts.

Gary, I did the rear upper arms on mine if you look on the other forum in my long thread I did write up about the trials and tribulations of swapping out the arms (go to page 3 in said thread). The biggest issue is whether or not the bolts holding the arms are seized. If they are it is an...