I tried it advancing one for another vehicle with a drill once. Worked out it would take 36 hours straight to do it that way 😅 I'll probably put it in a box with the rest of my semi functional spares and let whomever inherits my estate worry about 😆 they might end up with something valuable...

Replacement cluster is all good. It's in decent condition too, bit upset it's only got 153k miles on it. Mines up to 225k (and the rest of the vehicle definitely reflects that) so I was looking forward to making 250k one day 😅 might see how easy it is to advance the new one or just put a sticker...

That's something I was wondering. I've used a test and polarity probe and it appears the signals and voltage are reaching the cluster so I have to assume it's the cluster that's gone awry. Ordered a used one so I'm hoping for a plug and play result but will report back once it's arrived!

Took instrument cluster out. Cleaned the unit contacts with alcohol and cleaned the connectors with a needle file and some more alcohol. Doesn't seem to have helped, got the same issue. Is it possible to test the unit by feeding 12v to the different copper circuit lines, just to see if the lamps...

I'll give that a go, I remember they are those old skool connectors that slide over the printed circuits so they could have got some scale on them. Might explain why some of the bits are working if on the other connector. Thanks 🙂

Morning - it starts and runs just fine, essentially everything seems to be functional except the dash lamps - if it didn't have the MOT due in a few weeks I'd happily drive it around as is for a while 😅

Morning - got a weird issue on my 93' D1 200TDI. Been sat for a month or so whilst I was replacing the t-case. All back in and went to start up - only getting the alternator charge lamp and low fuel orange lamp illuminating on ignition. Handbrake warning, glow plug active, indicators...

When I drained it the 2nd time after putting new oil in, a pint of water came out first. Left it draining for the last week whilst waiting for parts as its been so cold, even the new oil wasn't running out. The gears look okay, surprisingly. Just spent the last few hours pulling chunks of...

As a final post on this thread, the leaking rear seal after replacement was likely due to over filling. I only put 1.5-1.75l in but it's a proper mess in there. Just dropped the sump cover. It ain't pretty. Will be cleaning this for a bit!

I think it's fixed. It's hard to tell from the pictures (or looking at it in person) but the sprocket on the output shaft is a little warped. Either from running it with a bad bearing for months (I knew that was probably not a good idea...) or, more likely, when I fitted it the first time with...

Took the bearing out, again. The inside view looks very much like BusterBus' https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-and-oil-seal-renewal.81771/ I have purchased a new shaft from Ashcroft, just in case. The original looks okay but maybe it's slightly bent, worn...

There did seem to be a bit of difference between torque settings between Defender, D1 and D2 in various places, even though it's the same box, one of the reasons I thought I best ask in case I was missing something obvious or my "ebay certified" torque wrench was massively out of spec! :-)

That's pretty much what I've done, I followed BusterBus' guide on here (very useful) and some other vids online. I initially drove the bearing onto the shaft, then into the box. Second time, I drifted the bearing over the shaft once installed, same result. I tried the new shield that came with...

I think the seal issue is sorted. The new seals look more like the ones I took out and are better quality. I didn't bother replacing the bearing on that side and I can torque it to spec without that side locking up. So rear output is sorted I believe. Pulled new nameless front bearing, installed...

I bought new flanges for mine too in case they were shagged. I did wonder if the front one might be slightly different and causing my issues but comparing the new with the old, they are identical so I'll keep using the new one when I do it all again!

I normally buy semi decent parts but just ordered stuff in a hurry this time and regretting it now! Especially considering the amount of work it took, massive waste of time...haha

Bit of an update. Seems something is definitely wrong. Even if I nip the front output flange up so the nylon is engaged, it locks the box up. To make matters worse, the cheap seal on the rear output is leaking now I've filled the box. The front bearing was bad and the rear seal was leaking...

That's great, thanks! I found a few different values in different places so was a bit confused. There were a couple posts on this Forum and LR UK and a parts supplier had 158Nm listed on their product details.

Found the torque value for the front and rear transfer box flange nuts to be around 140-160Nm. Seems to be restrict the rotation of the flange a fair bit. I'm considering that it's cold, I've fitted new bearings to both sides and not refilled the transfer box fluid yet but still seems to be...

Just a quick update on this. Test drive went okay, blew intercooler hose off but nothing catastrophic. Got a bit tappy when warmed up and wouldn't start when hot. Redid clearances and it was even worse, was missing and sounded like ****e. Inspected pushrods and, somehow, 4 were now bent. May...