I fitted the new sensor and everything started working, although it did seem to take a little longer than normal to reach operating temperature. To err on the side of caution, I will do a full coolant flush and replace tomorrow.

I've ordered one here. It looks to be the same. https://www.paddockspares.com/amr3321-temperature-sensor-300tdi.html

I just shorted that sensors connector to earth and the gauge is working. So I will get a replacement sensor and hopefully that gets it sorted ;)

Thank you. I totally didn't see that one under there. So is that the one I ground to earth to test it?

Hi, The temperature gauge on my Defender 110 300 Tdi 1997 is not registering any heat on the temperature gauge. I tested the thermostat and that is opening with no issues. I also replaced the sensor on top of the engine thinking that might be at fault but that hasn't resolved the issue either...

If anyone wants this center panel then let me know. It is unsanded and unpainted but it's perfectly functional. A quick sand and a paint and it will come up nice. It swaps the wiper switch to the right of the panel, has space for two switches and two sockets. Obviously, I will retain the...

You can add an auto-leveling sensor if your printer supports it. It requires manual editing of the firmware configuration file to support a BLtouch or BLtouch-compatible sensor. It can be done relatively easily, but it does require a bit of technical know-how and confidence to manually edit the...

If your normal print speed is 60mm/s then try setting the initial layer travel speed to 30mm/s. If you are printing at normal resolution (i.e. 0.15mm height) make your top/bottom thickness in your slicing software at least 1mm or more. So at 0.15mm 7 layers would be 1.05mm. That should help...

Hi craigoodwood, It's hard to give a definite answer as I only have experience with my own printer (Geetech A20M). If you are having trouble getting the print to stick then that would suggest your print bed isn't properly leveled (assuming your printer isn't auto-leveling). I would advise that...

Just a thought... Although I haven't had any problems with PLA, if you wanted to mitigate the potential problem of heat deformation then you could print in ABS as this has a much higher transition temperature of around 105°C, compare to PLA at 60°C.

Yeah, I've done a few little projects. A couple of pics are below. -------------------------------------------------- 1. Center console switch panel Various Configurations This is the 1st version fitted with a blank in the center as I was waiting for a USB charger and volt meter to be...

I used 1.75mm PLA. It's been working fine with no issues for nearly two years so far with no heat deformation from high cabin temps in the summer.

Hi All, This is a project I did back in April 2021. The project was to design and print a dashboard binnacle for an android head unit installation in my 1998 Defender (pre-TD5). This is the 1st revision, so I have only printed it in draft for test fitment. As a result, the...

To clarify the parts are sourced in Europe and not everyone wants the hassle of importing these and not everyone has access to a 3D printer, I would help with this if there was a suitable level of interest, otherwise, I am happy to supply all the details. I will put together a how-to guide if...

Thanks, the postcode has been updated to town instead. Sadly, I feel you have misinterpreted my post. I am not selling "tat" or anything else on my first post... At no point did I mention selling anything. It was a problem for me for ages and if others were interested then I am simply trying...

Hi All, I looked for one of these for some time a few years back but gave up on the idea after not really finding much at all. I did find some adapters but they were not quite what I needed as I just want to tow a standard trailer using the NATO electrics. I did fit a standard 7-pin socket at...