Thanks for the tips @Alibro Since there are no spec sheets for these contactors, my assumption was that they are aligned to Panasonic's line of EV automotive contactors and thus already had current limiting built in. Guess I need to look for an economizer then.

@Alibro Funny thing is I think I read through your thread where you fried your Precharge resistors 😁 Not fun times I figured 😅

Thanks for the heads up. I will look into that. The precharge is controlled by the Tesla drive unit so hopefully nothing goes wrong on that front. No DC fast charging here, just 7KW charging.

At the same time, I completed the high-voltage contactor box Installed that as well into the trunk space mount I had built earlier Currently working to wire up the charger and the rest of high-voltage. I got time till the end of August to complete this build, so I will be pushing it...

Once I had fitted the drive shafts I moved to complete the rear battery box. Got the high-voltage safety disconnect installed as well. I missing some photos from the battery box put together but will surely update them once I extract them from my endless pool of photos!

I also got the drive shafts assembled and fitted.

Completed the gear shifter, 4 position change-over switch built into an aluminium carrier and mated to a Ford Rotary Gear selector. This provides selections for Forward, Reverse, Neutral, and Park positions Once installed in the car, this is how it looks.

Finally got time from work to continue this build...lots of updates to post so kindly bear with me.

Thank you Alibro. I understood your restrictions on chassis modifications. Hope the car passes. And true, these Tesla parts are a work of art and awesome engineering. :D Hopefully, I get it to work at the full 11kW.

I am circling back to this CAN stuff as I wait for the final parts to arrive. Thinking to build this data set out so that I can add to the pool of knowledge you already shared. I don't have an ECU so I will heavily rely on what I can manipulate and customize from the Tesla Drive unit together...

I then measured up a new custom battery and DC-DC converter mount using card-board CAD. I ended up with the final mounting frame below to hold the 12v 80Ah Lithium accessories battery and 2.5Kw DC-DC converter that will charge it from the 400V main battery pack. The battery goes to the top...

Once the main harness was done, I switched to the engine bay to complete the wiring for the iBooster brake system, electric steering, electric PTC heater and accessories wiring from the main fuse box. This is what I started with; This is what I ended up with. I will be sealing the entry hole...

I got into laying and installing the custom wire harnesses as well. Started with the main Tesla drive unit harness, that runs under the car. Drilled an entry hole next to the brake lines' ingress ports. Then I just ran the harness through it, without a grommet. I figured I will seal this with...

Got time off work to get more work into the conversion Finished and installed the rear tray My phone was dying so took this poorly lit photos of it installed at the back. It is installed using rivet nuts on the frame into the rear floor, I will continue and complete this later with 1/4" ply...

LONG POST ALERT!! So finally got some time to continue work on this EV conversion build. Continued on the wiring pieces of work specifically completing the main harnesses. Completed the main drive unit control harness. Electric Brake iBooster harness Electric Steering rack controller and...

While the batteries where charging, I figured I take the time to complete the brake lines and install all the new plumbing as well. New brake lines to the ibooster fit well and the new reservoir as well. I guess bleeding the master cylinder is the logical next step.

Took time off the car and started to work on the batteries. Soldering all the 96 BMS sense wires and fuses took longer than I thought. The plan here was to charge the modules to the same voltages and match them in pairs with at least a 100mV delta. Over the next couple of days as...

More updates on the build here; I finished putting back the dash together and all wiring is done. These are the only errors I get on the dash. Starting from the left: 1. The hand-brake light will go off once I reinstall the hand brake and loop the brake fluid level sensor. 2. The doors light...

With a push to put the dash back together, I built the replacement electric heater for the engine-driven one using a 1000W PTC heater capable of 500W and 1000W working modes. I made a custom holder to match the original engine coolant-driven heater dimensions and it slides into the AC...

Yes, I will water-cool the batteries using the same loop with the charger and DC-DC converter. This is a separate loop from the one cooling the Tesla drive unit. There is a custom double-sided double-pass water block that sits between the battery packs that I intend to order from China or build...