Watch this, as before does the lever connect to the hi /low shaft

Hi, is the Hi /Low lever still attached as I have had this problem the pin attaching the lever to the selector snapped, this allowed the lever to just float around I got under and looked around saw the problem , moved the selector using some mole grips , drove home , and replaced the pin a few...

impact sockets are 6 sided and built to take a lot of abuse, or do you have an electric welding machine, you can put heat into the nut by simply getting a large dia rod and stabing it and holding it on the nut dont try to weld just let it get very hot

I use 1mm for general work, 2 mm for chassis, and 3 mm for suspention bits

doing the bush is also a pain , I did both of mine front and rear, you can only do then by removing the anti roll bar completly, plus to remove the ACE ram you need to be able to get /make the tool to get them off, I was luck and managed to make the tool I needed, I did post the jobs on the forum

if it haas aball bearing in it it maybe handed, if you fit it the wrong way round, the ball may not lock the seat belt when you need it to

removing the diff means you need to pull the halfshaft out as they fit in the diff so best to do any work before you just swop it

Hi you dont need to remove it it you just doing a stright swop, but, you do if you need to carry out any work on the diff once it installed , like new oil seal, or check the Preload after replaceing a set of pinion bearing, you will plus if you remove it now it would be easier if at alater date...

yes if you want a copy PM me, plus I have the 3000+page repair manual

OK so this is how I would do it, Brake calliper Remove the disc Remove the steering rack track rod end nut and open the ball joint Remove the drive shaft nut Remove the anti roll bar drop link item 11 Remove the lower ball joint nut and drop the lower control arm down item 15 Pull the strut...

Hi Badger 688, just a question, what vehicle is it , as that looks like a Macpherson strut bottom not a D2 ball joint , and I see your trying to get the bolt out but what part are you rying to replace,???

this id how I bleed it

I fitted a new master and slave, but I replaced the orginal piupe with a flexible one I got from

have a look here, copy and paste it into google it s for a trade cours in welding the old night school courses https://thetradescollegeuk.co.uk/courses/welding/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uK0BhC0ARIsANQtgGNN8YKRpAzgg3VLglWzIFzkxyEg7dpAspywUs1g_wSuBdhqPj2Lk3caAib8EALw_wcB

I just got under and redrilled the holes bigger

I have 157,000 miles on my odometer, and had only 2 advises on my last MOT on the 1 June 24, ball joint rubber cracking, so all good so far, the last week my brakes started squeaking, this started to get worse, so as I have never had a brake problem and have not replaced then since I got it in...

That were mine leaked, when I looked at the sunroof, I could literaly move the front to rear and sise to side as the seal between the sunroof mount and the roof had gone, so it was an headline out , remove both sunroof's, clean and reseal, inside nad out pblanking the holes were the drains are...

and this one Stallex Front Windscreen Wiper Motor Linkage Bars For Land Rover Discovery 2 98

I found this address on ebay, they post to france, new wiper assembly, £90 AZ Front Windscreen Window Wiper Motor + Linkage For Land Rover Discovery 1998-2

Wow, that’s just disintegrated , mine was just a bit of surface rust, on both sides, the seal, by the way the pelum is not suppose to seal on the windscreen, and the rubber is just to finish off and make it look good