this is the mounting plate to remove them both in one go

this a drawing of the TC adapter plate

Hi removing the TC box and Clutch housing tegether as one makes it a very heavy unit, ther is an adapter plate you can use to remove the TC box separately, the

nice bumper whats the make

possibly this one Double Braid Metallic Hose 316l x 304L Nominal Bore (NB) Braid Layers Nominal OD (mm) Nominal ID (mm) Minimum Bend Radius (Static) mm Minimum Bend Radius (Dynamic) mm Max Safe Working Pressure (BAR) Max Safe Test Pressure (BAR) Nominal Burst Pressure (BAR) 1/4" 2 12 6.2...

why not go for stainless steel braded , high pressure hoses, https://www.intricoproducts.com/product/stainless-steel-convoluted-metallic-hose

Watch this, as before does the lever connect to the hi /low shaft

Hi, is the Hi /Low lever still attached as I have had this problem the pin attaching the lever to the selector snapped, this allowed the lever to just float around I got under and looked around saw the problem , moved the selector using some mole grips , drove home , and replaced the pin a few...

impact sockets are 6 sided and built to take a lot of abuse, or do you have an electric welding machine, you can put heat into the nut by simply getting a large dia rod and stabing it and holding it on the nut dont try to weld just let it get very hot

I use 1mm for general work, 2 mm for chassis, and 3 mm for suspention bits

doing the bush is also a pain , I did both of mine front and rear, you can only do then by removing the anti roll bar completly, plus to remove the ACE ram you need to be able to get /make the tool to get them off, I was luck and managed to make the tool I needed, I did post the jobs on the forum

if it haas aball bearing in it it maybe handed, if you fit it the wrong way round, the ball may not lock the seat belt when you need it to

removing the diff means you need to pull the halfshaft out as they fit in the diff so best to do any work before you just swop it

Hi you dont need to remove it it you just doing a stright swop, but, you do if you need to carry out any work on the diff once it installed , like new oil seal, or check the Preload after replaceing a set of pinion bearing, you will plus if you remove it now it would be easier if at alater date...

yes if you want a copy PM me, plus I have the 3000+page repair manual

OK so this is how I would do it, Brake calliper Remove the disc Remove the steering rack track rod end nut and open the ball joint Remove the drive shaft nut Remove the anti roll bar drop link item 11 Remove the lower ball joint nut and drop the lower control arm down item 15 Pull the strut...

Hi Badger 688, just a question, what vehicle is it , as that looks like a Macpherson strut bottom not a D2 ball joint , and I see your trying to get the bolt out but what part are you rying to replace,???

this id how I bleed it

I fitted a new master and slave, but I replaced the orginal piupe with a flexible one I got from

have a look here, copy and paste it into google it s for a trade cours in welding the old night school courses https://thetradescollegeuk.co.uk/courses/welding/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-uK0BhC0ARIsANQtgGNN8YKRpAzgg3VLglWzIFzkxyEg7dpAspywUs1g_wSuBdhqPj2Lk3caAib8EALw_wcB