I see what you mean about bow in the p38 radius arms. They might just do the trick.i dont know if they would fit, I suppose I will have to get my hands on a set and offer them up. Thanks

Thanks for the tip. I had bar props make me up a pair of heavy duty props with double ended wide angles at both ends. Given that they are not the stock props do you think this would still be an issue for the UJ?

Rose joints are an interesting solution that might work with a curved radius arm, together they might be strong enough. Not sure if it would work or not but I will give it some thought. Thanks is again for the ideas.

The current front wheels are actually standard d2 alloys that dont provide any offset at all so the most narrow you could get without using thin tyres. I have a pair of steel modular to put on that have a +25 offset which will make me approx 2" wider each side. I will need to see but I suspect...

Thanks for the comments. So the chassis was a disco 1 but is now shortened to 90" and has d2 front axel which has a better turning lock. As I am running bigger tyres they hit the radius arms before I reach full lock. As I have the fiddle breaks you could argue that I dont need the improved...

Thanks for pointing that out.

That's a good point worth checking. My local club is not under such stringent rules and not only open to land rovers, there is a very interesting mix of land rovers, Suzukis and other. We have to follow MSA guidelines. My motor is a single seater with fiddle breaks on the back wheels. I do also...

Here is a question for the ccv trialers out there. Has anyone tried moving the front radius arms closer together on the front axel to improve turning circle and therefore negate the need for offset wheels that make the stance wider which makes it worse for getting through gates. I have a cut...