No need to lower anything, apart from maybe the exhaust. Plan how you are going to run it as both ends are a pain. Get some more clips, maybe even at the rear leave old pipe in to clip to. The bends to the abs pump are tight. You'll probably need diagnostic software to run the abs pump while...

Bigpluke was on the forum for 11 days in 2016! Post a new thread in freelander section

I put the rear axle stands on the subframe as the jacking point is near to the corner that tends to turn into dust. I did drive it onto ramps, then jack the rear up to put on axle stands. Never doing it again as when jacking it moved back slightly onto the ramp, then as I lifted the back off...

Yes to swapping the control unit.

A decent o2 sensor socket is a must. It has a cut out for the cable. Maybe a short breaker bar.

Depending on your reason to remove glow plugs, the M47 engine will start with just 3 glow plugs. May get a bit f white smoke until fully firing.

I bought a spanner extender to move the tensioner, and keep it loose. Was awkward to hold it, get the belt on and not get one skin behind the belt. To stop the spanner slipping off a wedge of wood may help.

Good call above, did you try the plate on the splines before fitting, hopefully you have the correct plate. Sometimes when you come back to it you can get it to align. Only needs the engine to be half inch too high or low to stop it going in. Fingers crossed for you

I think they are a service item now so I'd go for the cheaper ones.

Mine are rusty and where I take it likes advisories, had one for the car being wet underneath. Never mentioned the brake shields. Any bits that are loose pull them off.

And tie the board to the vehicle so you can get well clear before stopping to get your boards back

On my list to do is methods to open the rear door and bonnet if failure happens.

Is the cam belt still intact. A broken valve can get buried in the piston or cylinder which is fairly terminal. (although it is only a lump of metal to replace!)

I read that to mean the engine isn't turning over and just a click. That would lead me to starter solenoid contacts being dirty.

I see what you mean. If the prop turns when front wheels turned then at least it proves the drive is coming from the front, maybe

If you can get all 4 wheels off the ground and turn each wheel and see which makes the prop turn.

Meter at the regulator to see if there is any power when pressing the switch. Or meter at switch although I don't know which cable does what.

Did you turn the engine over first with a spanner on the crank pulley? Did you feel regular compression for each cylinder?

You can connect a 12v supply with jump leads to maintain voltage to the car. I have seen some that plug into the cigarette lighter.

Get a code reader that can give live figures and it will give you the dpf in and out pressure. Should be virtually the same. That would give you an indication of if it is even clogging up.