Don’t want to start an oil argument but should I be using an A5/B5 oil? I know it needs to conform to M2C913-B & be 5w-30 but the owners manual states B1 or B3. I’m led to believe A5/B5 does not offer the best protection for the engine? Thanks

Just took the timing belt cover off & the oil pump has definitely been replaced before so presumably an oil pump has previously failed & they haven’t got all the shrapnel out the engine. Pic attached

OP - I know it’s been 2.5 years but did you get a solution to this?

Before my ownership it’s had the timing belt done at 105k & also at 148k - the 148k change could well have been due to a failed oil pump casing as wouldn’t make sense to change the belt after just 40k miles. I think I might strip the timing belt cover off just to check

I don’t know for sure but it’s on 174k miles so presumably has been done

Non magnetic so alloy

Is say it’s the wrong shape & too thick to be from a valve guide. Have attached a few more pics with my fingers for scale

Anyone?

Found this whilst the sump was off to replace the gasket. Was wedged in the oil pickup screen - any ideas whereabouts in the engine it’s come from? It looks like twisted metal - almost from a gear of sorts? Any insight appreciated!

Hi, Does anyone know what the part no of the vacuum pipe in the attached pic is? Its the thin diameter one running parallel to the coolant pipe at the very front of the engine bay - mine has a hole in it! Thanks

Have removed a couple of the top rod bearings & looking considerably worse than the bottom (See photo). Any logical reason for this? Say to safe I’ve ordered a new set or bearings! Thanks

Can anyone tell me if this is normal wear on a rod bearing or not? Engine has 210k miles & im assuming these are the original bearings Removed For inspection whilst the Sump was off & now wondering if I should just change them? Thanks

As above, try with the MAF unplugged - if it's back to normal then time for a new MAF. Could also be the wastegate modulator if there's no boost......

206k, 2001 TD5 Manual

I've now done around 300 miles with the SMPE MAF fitted & no problems at all, also it's the 15p engine. At around 1/3 the price of the genuine MAF I'm delighted with how well it's working. Time will tell in how long it lasts but I've also heard of genuine MAF's failing after a couple of months...

Wastegate modulator?

I originally got sent the wrong part (was for a Disco 3) so returned it & bought an OEM thinking it would be a Siemens/OEM - it wasn’t - it’s an SMPE MA(made in the UK) which is classed as OEM. I was going to return this one but that would be another weeks wait so decided to fit it & it works...

New MAF arrived today, it feels even better than before so the old MAF has been tired for a while

Thanks for your help. In light of what you say regarding the MAP, is there any major reason to run with the MAF connected? Other than optimum efficiency & MPG?

In the meantime you reckon it will be ok to run though on the default values? Thanks